Maybe I will remove the paper like you describe and then heat up the toner w/ hot air?
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Spencer <upnxwood16@...> wrote:
>
> Mine do that also, after I remove the paper when it is done soaking. I rub my fingers over the traces underneath running water just to get rid of the paper residue. Your tracks should stay on the board as it takes a lot to remove the toner.
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: dubob4432 <dubob4432@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 12:27 AM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Need More Heat - GBC Laminator (pics included)
>
>
> Â
> Maybe I am using too much heat - I prep as you recommend and once done, I put the piece in water and let the paper come off. Once it dries, the traces are black but slowly turn white as if paper is adhered to the paper.
>
> Possibly I am going the wrong way? Maybe just 1-2 passes through the laminator and not 10?
>
> Thoughts?
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "smilingcat90254" <smilingcat@> wrote:
> >
> > I've been using a thermal press with direct temperature read out on the aluminum heat plate. I can set temperature and pressure on the thermal press.
> >
> > HP toner will melt around 110C. might be even lower around 105C or so. At lower temperature, the toner may have a harder time fusing onto the copper.
> >
> > Copper needs to be ultra clean. I use 0000 steel wool. followed by scrubbing with TSP solution using scotch brite (green) pad, then rinse with water then cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Wear glove through out the process. Laminate image immediately to reduce contaminating the copper surface and oxidation. Someone thought oxidizing in the etcher for few second made the image adhere better. Haven't tried so have no comment about oxidizing surface.
> >
> > I really do need reliable repeatability down to 6/6 mil. I may go to photoresist. Found a source at around $3.00/ft^2. Not cheap but claims to get images down to 1/1 mil. Stuff is called puretch. Distributor is an artist out of South Carolina. Think and Tinker has similar material not as high performance at around ??$2.00?? per square feet but you need to spend over $100.00 for the minimum quantity.
> >
> > Result I'm getting out of photopaper of all different kinds, specially formulated toner transfer paper is just not cutting it for me.
> >
> > Anyway, temperature set it around 105C to about 130C. At 115C and above the plastic coating on the photopaper will decompose and will turn into hard white film.
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dubob4432" <dubob4432@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > I need to get a bit more heat out of this GBC Creative Laminator. Very close but probably another 10-20C would be what I need (ability to adjust would be EXCELLENT). How do I go about accomplishing my goal. Has the Daewoo KSD602 thermostat - http://www.daewood.com.hk/en/productdetail.asp?id=122&sortid=210&pid=.
> > >
> > > http://www.bnkz.com/GBC/Laminator001.jpg
> > >
> > > http://www.bnkz.com/GBC/Laminator002.jpg
> > >
> > > http://www.bnkz.com/GBC/Laminator003.jpg
> > >
> > > http://www.bnkz.com/GBC/Laminator004.jpg
> > >
> > > http://www.bnkz.com/GBC/Laminator005.jpg
> > >
> > > Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I did not remove the power board area but have no problems going into that area - I am so close, I just feel the toner is not being 'baked' onto the copper clad quite enough to stand up to the time in the muriatic acid / H2O2 w/ the bubbler and small, important pieces are coming off. Doing .5mm pitch smd work.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > > Bob
> > >
> >
>
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