Dennis, I really did some confusion to explain what I want to do.
I wish to thanks Carl to bring a better definition about this technology
(MCPCB).
Roger
2012/10/9 Dennis <
nojoeco@...>
> ∗∗
>
>
> Ah, took a little while to figure out what you were talking about.
>
> There's some confusion because almost all the finished boards are nickel
> plated too. It's a layer of copper on aluminum. I believe the insulator is
> probably kapton or a fiberglass layer impregnated with something "thermal".
> If it were just a super thick layer of anodizing the developer might strip
> it out.
>
> Cut edges are a problem for etching/developing because you don't want
> exposed aluminum reacting with the etchant. I'm guessing it comes with a
> mask on the back or it's clear anodized.
>
> As for soldering I'd just use the same technique for all SMT boards with
> ground planes, preheat the BACK to 150C, and then either manually solder
> the front or hot air the parts down with paste.
>
> Of course if you are doing whole boards at once, the toaster oven method
> comes to mind.
> I'm always doing exotic and multi layer boards at home, so have a little
> experience. Used to do it professionally, but can't afford the x-ray
> machine and reflow equipment.
> I've made my own temperature controlled back side heater and use a
> modified craft hot air tool for home use.
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "H. Carl Ott" <hcarlott@...> wrote:
> >
> > On Sun, Oct 7, 2012 at 9:43 AM, Rogerio F Cunha <rogerio.cunha@
> ...>wrote:
>
> >
> > > ∗∗
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi list,
> > >
> > > Hello List,
> > > Anyone has a idea how to produce a aluminium pcb over a virgin aluminum
> > > board?
> > > I'm looking a way to home brew a pcb to solder some power leds that are
> > > very sensitivy to thermal dissipation.
> > > By what I've seen, the companies applying some kind of metal deposit
> over a
> > > virgin aluminium board, to permit soldering.
> > >
> >
> > MCPCB
> >
> > Metal Core PCB. http://goo.gl/GXctT
> >
> > Not quite sure how the pros do it.
> >
> > If I was trying to fake it, I'd etch my led PCB on the thinnest copper
> > clad I could find, with the largest copper lands I could get away with
> > Then I'd bond the pcb to an alum back plate with some good thermal paste.
> >
> > -carl
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
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