Ok so it is strangely silent on this topic. So I will let you know
what I am doing. I purchased a laminator from a place in Chicago
called big lots. A store that buys discontinued things and sells for
a reduced rate, I paid 29.95 US. The specs said that the maximum
temperature is 100 degrees Celsius. So I tried the process on a
copper clad board with zero results. Discouraged I left it and tried
the iron method. I cannot get the results that many have experienced.
The traces are fat and jagged, there are voids etcÂ…
So when the thread on the laminator unfolded I was prepared to buy
one at Staples if someone had proven that it worked. As usual no one
has just a lot of speculation research, which to me is useless unless
results can be verified. So I proceeded to take the laminator apart,
which I had purchased. It has bimetal thermostat connected to a one
shot that tells you when it has reached operating temp. I placed a
switch to short out the thermostat and let it warm up 10 minutes and
tried a board with glossy paper (national geographic in case anyone
wants to try the same and it is easy to get). I ran it though about 6
times and placed it under water for about 5 minutes. I was surprised
to see clear results however there were some parts that did not fuse
to the copper so I determined that I need more heat. I placed the
cover and let it warm up 20 minutes and found that the nylon gears
melted on the rollers. So now I have to cast new gears and try again.
So my question to ones that have successful laminators, what is the
temperature that they operate at so that I can replicate the
results????
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <alienrelics@y...>
wrote:
> You know he has a point. After all, not all laminators are created
> equal, and I don't recall this particular laminator being mentioned.
>
> I know I have a very good GBC laminator with adjustable temp, about
3
> or 4 years old, and after about 8 passes it still won't fully stick
to
> even one of those cardstock thin 1 oz doublesided boards.
>
> Steve Greenfield
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dsv1486"
> <darrell.vandenberg@t...> wrote:
> > Dean:
> > Appreciate the sarcasm, no really, however that is not the answer
to
> > the question. Has anyone gone out to staples, purchased the lam
and
> > tried a toner transfer. I have seen lots of stuff on the net
about
> > research, but little proof that can be validated. Have you done
so????
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Dean Batute"
<phix_it@y...>
> > wrote:
> > > Darrell,
> > > a thread just finished DIRECTLY before your's. Not months
> > ago,
> > > nor weeks ago litteraly the posting before your's. Read the
very
> > > first message that began that Thread. Give you a hint...It was
from
> > > me.
> > >
> > > For every one else....funny wouldn't you say? Here I
am...research
> > > research research, read ,read read, do everything I can to find
out
> > > info on a topic that interests me. For some....well...???
> > > Sometimes I wish I wasn't a polite Englishman.
> > >
> > >
> > > Cheers....Dean.
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dsv1486"
> > > <darrell.vandenberg@t...> wrote:
> > > > Does anyone know if the Docuseal 95p at Staples will work for
> > > PCB's.
> > > > Has anyone tried it?????? I am thinking of purchasing one
however
> > I
> > > > would like to know if it is worth it.