markuszingg wrote:
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Adam Seychell
> <adam_seychell@y...> wrote:
>
>>This weekend I played around with my hot air welder again, trying
>>to get better practice. I bought three types or welding rod, and
>>small and large triangle type and a 3 mm round, each type comes
>>in 50 rods per pack. I found triangle is the best. For 4.5mm
>>sheet I use the larger triangle, for 3 mm sheet I use the small
>>triangle rods. Practice on lots of scrap pieces and then try and
>>break the weld when cooled. A ∗really∗ good weld will not break
>>at the weld, but rather the sheet its self will break. The trick
>>is to get the right temperature setting and nozzle distance from
>>the work piece. There is a fine line between burning the plastic
>>and not heating it enough to properly fuse. If the temperature is
>>too low then it takes too long to melt the plastic and so too
>>much heat transfers to the bulk of the material, which makes
>>everything deform and then you cannot push hard of the rod. If
>>the heat is too hot then it very easy to burns the plastic which
>>contaminates it with carbon and produces a weak weld.
>>
>>Adam
>
>
> Hi Adam
>
> The trick that I use is the hot air welding gun itself. It's
> temperature is automatically controlled and it is having a digital
> display showing the temperature which also can be used to set the
> temperature requested. It then takes the gun probably 10 seconds or
> so to reach a new temeparature level and it then stays there. This
> really helps a lot in getting consistent good results.
>
> Markus
>
>
>
Do you have brand name / model number for the hot air welder
you are using ? I have a Leister Tirac S
http://www.leister.com/english/html/inhalt/6_1_3.htmlIt does not have digital temperature readout.