ok, i decided i can't sleep without reading that completely...
i have some questions.
a) you use jetprint photo paper.
this is inkjet paper right?
I have none at home, did you try glossy magazine paper?
does it work with your method?
b) how does fusing after the actual printing affect the process?
(this idea came while reading how you discovered it, i wonder how the test
pattern
came out (second print).
thanks for sharing that..
maybe i will get it to work for me, the direct plotting i try for ages now
still doesn't work perfect. But i managed to use colophony resin as ink.
works same as staedtler red ink now, but still the metal tip pen scratches
the paint off.... but... that's a completely different story....
I will try what you described tomorrow, with magazine paper for now.
st
On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 16:52:35 -0400, Alan King <alan@...> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Just joined the group, mainly to share this for the moment. If you've
> tried the laser toner transfer and didn't get near perfect results, you
> should really try it again with fusing it 3 times as below. It seems like
> this would make the toner stay in the paper and be harder to transfer,
> but it really makes the toner and outer paper surface become one,
> transfer heat to the toner better, and then the outer surface tears at
> the edge of the toner when removing the paper far better. Also seems to
> dry out or 'burn' the rest of the paper coating that doesn't have toner,
> making it much less likely to stick to the board from ironing. Nearly
> perfect results and in the etch tank within 5 minutes of printing, I'm
> now doing SO and TSOP surface mount boards with ease.
>
> First, take a look here in the PCB folder. Might want to check in my
> stepper and light folders too while you're there. I have my own
> intelligent 3 stepper controller and a few hundred stepper motors on hand
> as well. Also have a homemade CNC driller that reads the excellon files
> from Eagle to drill boards.
>
> http://photos.yahoo.com/alantak69
>
> Fuzziness is from the camera not doing close focus very well. Note that
> the toner held the paper to it, the coating seperated at the trace edges.
> No paper in the holes etc, and an excellent pattern in the trash paper as
> well from the coating left on the paper. Far better results than I'd
> ever gotten with this method before. All because I printed a couple
> extra TSOP patterns by running through the printer again. Didn't care if
> the main board didn't come out, and it ended up working ten times better
> than it ever did before. This is using the JetPrint Photo paper and my
> HP Laserjet 6l.
>
>
> No doubt most of you are familiar with this page:
>
> http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm
>
> I could make a useable board following this, but it was a lot of work
> removing the extra paper etc and touching up the board. Now it is simply
> a matter of a few minutes ironing, then some hot water, then some cold
> water, then peel. Etching within 5 minutes or so. My results are now
> super and easy, where before it was a lot of work to get a useable board.
> It's now so good that I had to share for anyone else not getting terrific
> results..
>
> Rest of the message is cut and paste from a couple I sent to Tom with
> more complete details:
>
>
> Hi Tom,
>
> Might want to try what I've described below, much improved results over
> just fusing once. Previously I'd assumed that having the toner fused as
> little to the paper as possible would be best, but now I realize that the
> extra fusing makes the rest of the paper much less likely to stick. The
> below method work about ten times better than it ever did before with
> just a normal print, at least on my HP Laserjet 6l. Results are now as
> good as any of the films, and no soaking just iron then wet then peel.
> Actually I'll attach a pic or two, they're small. Fuzziness is from too
> close with a normal camera, the traces are sharp. Note the white fuzz on
> the toner, not only did the toner stay stuck it kept the paper with it,
> almost no lifting at all. May want to add it into your instructions so
> people don't start off doing too much work..
>
> Alan
>
> Tom,
>
> No problem. I had always assumed that sticking the toner more to the
> paper would be a bad thing, but I happened to have a small test board
> printed that I didn't care if it wasn't perfect when made. I also wanted
> to make a small test spider pattern for a 8 pin TSOP part, so to double
> up I printed two on unused areas of the same paper. Also didn't care if
> it peeled a bit, so didn't wait and just peeled after putting under
> water. Lo and behold it worked much better than ever before, and after
> the fact it wasn't hard to think of a reason or two why that might be the
> case. Made another board or two now, and trace edges are razor sharp now
> too. Still get some minor mashing etc if ironed too hard, but looks as
> good as the commercial films, and even they have you soaking longer than
> what I'm doing now. I hardly even give it time to get wet and cool off a
> bit before I start peeling. It's quite good at TSOP level now, my
> original boards a year ago could barely even do 16 mil traces ok with the
> same printer and paper. Just had lots of peeling traces and having to
> pick at the stuck paper surface. No more toothbrush hole cleaning!
> Also not even bothering to iron nearly so completely now, just iron a few
> minutes pressing here and there to change the holes around and it works.
> Only had a tiny little peel or two on the last board, and I really was
> pushing it and didn't iron but a couple minutes or so, nowhere near a
> thorough job.
> I am abolutely positive the commercial paper people already hate me
> though, I have posted this to several places already, just finally
> getting back to your page. It was useable before but now it is hard to
> see anyone ever buying a more expensive paper.
>
> Alan
>
>
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>
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