On Wed, 22 Feb 2012 02:27:45 -0000, you wrote:
>Recently I had my first try at a UV-exposed board
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>(because I have nightmares from trying to align paper properly for a double-sided board with the laminator, ha ha)
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I figured that one out, or at least, got it very close to right.
use half thickness board, prepare each side individually. Make sure
that there are three alignment holes, each at a corner, leaving out
one corner (keeps the board from being reversed).
I use map push pins and a slightly smaller drill. You want a thick
pin so it does not get pushed side to side by misalignment.
Harvey
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>I used this photoresist film: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Dry-Film-Photoresist-Sheets-for-DIY-PCB-6x8-q-/320735055777 which worked pretty nicely, although it took me a couple of goes to get it on the copper without bubbles!
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>Some UV LEDs on a sheet of protoboard for the exposure lamp, and to test out different spacings etc (Thanks to Chris for the LEDs!) - hopefully I can make a proper exposure box once (if?) I get the other issues sorted.
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>I used my Canon iP2000 inkjet printer and inkjet transparency sheets to make the transparency, unfortunately it did not come out as good as I had hoped, as solid black fills had many quite light parts in them when held up to the light, and when exposed left a speckled pattern on the developed board.
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>I used a solution of Sodium Carbonate (Washing Soda) to do developing.
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>Today I tried with a Laser printer but again, holding the transparency up to the light I see too many light areas. I haven't tried exposing using that printout but I feel it will have a similar problem to the previous one.
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>What does everyone else do to get their printouts opaque enough for the UV process?
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