On Fri, 27 Jan 2012 23:23:55 -0000, you wrote:
>I highly recommend the "Dremel 220-01 Rotary Tool Work Station"
>
>you can see me drilling with it (I also have a vacuum nozzle close to the drill) in this youtube video which I made as part of a small series in DIY PCBs.
Been there and done that. The drill press that I have has some wobble
side to side, and the dremel tool has a significant runout. The
Proxxon has a lot less. It seems to make a difference when the drill
size goes to #78 or so.
Proxxon has a steel collet, 3 jaws rather than 4, with the Dremel
being aluminum.
My own experience is that the dremel, although it hits 30K rpm,
doesn't work as well as the Proxxon.
However, the vertical drill press can be a bit awkward, the parallax
from the side view is quite annoying, and the entire setup is "do over
each time". I do use a shop vac with a reduced hose/nozzle
combination to remove debris, but there's better ways of doing this
than just a nozzle.
I've seen something like a question mark, made of 1/2 inch aluminum
tubing, with a slot milled around the inside, end plugged. That was
on a T-Tech miller. Might catch all the debris, and if put there
permanently, will take care of the nasty stuff.
Exact parameters will be something I have to figure out.
Harvey
>
>DIY PCB Part-1 Drilling
>http://youtu.be/Qifv-GkI96k
>
>I have many youtube videos on PCBs and microcontrollers etc.
>Please subscribe to the youtube channel if you like.
>
>Tom
>
>--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bebx2000" <bebx2000@...> wrote:
>>
>> I also use this setup.I mounted a thin project box to the table with a laser pointer, a mirror at 45 deg and a pinhole inside to illuminate the bottom of the PCB. The pin hole is made by mounting a brass shim and drilling the hole with the smallest bit that you have. A degree of fiddling is necessary to get the laser beam directly centered on the pinhole. But once it is adjusted, the beam is strong enough to illuminate the hole to be drilled from below. There is also a bit of diffusion through the FR4, but the center of the spot of light is exactly aligned with the bit. the top of the project box serves as the table which is OK for small PCBs.
>>
>> The drawback is that once it is calibrated you can't remove the rotary tool or rotate the arm. This arrangement largely eliminates the depth perception problem; where the spot of light is, is where the drill bit will penetrate the PCB.
>>
>> Baxter
>>
>> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "tda7000" <Tda7000@> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > I use a Proxxon FBS rotary tool in a Proxxon 140/S stand Lhttp://www.proxxon.com/eng/html/28606.php)
>> >
>>
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