Hi Mars,
Neat description, thanks for sharing. I'm curious why the paper needs to be in the oven. Wouldn't it be ok to heat up the board and plate past the fuse temperature, then remove it from the oven, and then roll the paper on at that point? The advantage would be the ability to do double sided transfers. The paper (single or double) could be taped to an alignment jig made out of scrap stock or anything the same width as the PCB to form a pouch open at the top and one side, then you just slip the board into the pouch, roll it, flip it, and roll the other side (if double sided).
--
James.
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Mars Bonfire" <mbonfire@...> wrote:
>
> ∗Use kitchen oven - preheat to fuse temperature
> ∗Monitor temperature with a thermocouple
> ∗Tape Pulsar paper with toner image to PC board
> ∗Place PCB with Pulsar paper facing up on 3/4" thick smooth aluminum plate
> ∗Cover PCB with an oven pot holder to provide insulation from direct heated from above
> ∗Place in oven
> ∗Wait until slab reached fuse temperature (monitor slab temp with thermocouple
> ∗Remove plate with PCB from oven
> ∗Place on heat resistant surface
> ∗Remove pot holder
> ∗Carefully apply pressure to Pulsar paper using a J-roller (used for pressing formica laminate on counters tops...found in orange store).
> ∗Roll, roll, roll
> ∗Toss PCB under cold water
> ∗Peel paper
>
> Key idea. Kitchen oven combined with aluminum plate with pot holder insulation, monitored with thermocouple provides uniform, even, controlled fuse temperature.
>
> J-roller conforms to surface irregularities...don't have to sweat surface texture variations. Any thickness board.
>
> Works great.
>
> Maybe able to substitute sort kind of large smooth ceramic tile for the aluminum plate...very cheap..having tried yet.
>
> Enjoy
>