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Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] introduction

From: Harvey White <madyn@...>
Date: 2011-08-13

On Sat, 13 Aug 2011 12:06:46 -0000, you wrote:

>Hi all,
>I'm Chuck. Retired USAF avionics, general tinkerer, and amature machinist. I joined this group to get help creating a pcb for a project to CNC a rotary table for my machining hobby.
>I have tried the laser toner iron transfer method with poor results. I can't seem to get a clean transfer.
>I have been ayay from electronics for 20+ years other than building the Shumatech DRO for my mill.
>Any members in or near East Tennesee, Kingsport, Bristol, Johnson City, Greeneville area that could teach this old dog some new tricks?

Nope, not me. Never lived near there.

However:

1) clean board. I use bonami, then a rubdown with 1000 or 1200 grit
wet/dry sandpaper, then a acetone rub. That ought to get the board
clean.

2) I also use Pulsar paper. Print the outline of the board on
standard 8 1/2 by 11 paper. If single sided, print bottom and do not
mirror. If double sided, print bottom as before, then print top
mirrored and upside down (tends to match printer irregularities).

3) for thin (.020 to .025) board I run it through a laminator about 7
times. Too much more and the pattern spreads. Long thin boards cool
rapidly and may need 8 passes. YMMV on the count, but I'd do at least
4. For thicker boards (0.062), I'd do the same but be careful of the
laminator, it may jam.

FWIW I use HCL and H2O2 as an etchant.

If the toner is not sticking, it can be either lack of heat and
pressure, or dirty boards. Always wear plastic gloves to keep your
hand oils off the boards.

Harvey

>
>Chuck
>
>