The process I am using is a little involved but I'm getting great results. Following someone else's recommendation this list, I use a product called CitraSolv as a primer. CitraSolv is an organic cleaner made from citrus (d-Limonene) that dissolves the toner just like acetone does. I use a piece of 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and wet sand a the copper a little bit to brighten up the copper layer and remove any surface imperfections, then dry the board with a microfiber cloth and then smear a thin layer of CitraSolv on it. It will evaporate within a few minutes leaving a dry but very slightly oily surface. I print out the traces on magazine paper (which will tend to transfer the ink from the page) or glossy inkjet photo paper and tape it to the copper clad board with the blue delicate surface painter's tape and run it through a laminator a couple of times to stick it down to the board. I then pop the board directly into a toaster oven ∗with the paper still on it) at about 375F for 2 or 3 minutes to melt the toner and heat the board all over, then pass it through the laminator a couple more times before it has time to cool. I then put it in a sink of cold water with a little dishwashing detergent to soak the paper off the board. I get great results! The transfer is very nearly 100% from the paper to the board and the toner adheres very, very well...you can't scrape it off with your fingernail.
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mmccoo" <mail@...> wrote:
>
> Presentation paper is what I use.
>
> I think of it was blank magazine paper. Magazine paper works well for me too, but using the blank stuff makes it a bit easier to see what's where. Also, with some of my ground planes, you can see the text of the paper on the final etched board.
>
> I imagine it also helps line things up when doing 2 sided, though my experience with that is limited.
>
> I much prefer a laminator over the iron. my results improved a lot when I got one. you should be able to find one new for $25 or $30.
>
> I've also read (and perhaps someone can comment on this) of a trick to further improve things. I haven't tried it yet, but it makes sense.
>
> After you've removed the paper, but before etch, bake it in the oven. I interpret this as allowing the toner to remelt and even out a bit. take advantage of cohesion.
>
>
> Miles
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "freespamfree" <freespamfree@> wrote:
> >
> > Sorry if this has been answered before but so far I have read that people use shiny paper. What type of paper seems to work good for the toner transfer method? I was thinking something in-expensive like magazine paper.
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Piers Goodhew <piers@> wrote:
> > >
> > > G'day Rod,
> > >
> > > I use the edge of the iron - no holes and more pressure (plus various passes of the flat of it - if you're moving the holes don't have much effect). If you're doing any sort of volume, I think a laminator would make a lot of sense. But I'm not doing volume. The fact that our generic toner cart's getting low is causing a lot more trouble than lack-of-stick-to-the-board.
> > >
> > > PG
> > >
> > > On 19/05/2011, at 2:56 PM, Rodney Jackson wrote:
> > >
> > > > G'day John,
> > > > I have thought of using this method, the problem is, I am unable to find an
> > > > old flat iron (as different from steam iron)
> > > > I know not to use water in a steam iron but the things these days have too
> > > > many holes in the soul plate.
> > > > Suppose I could still use one and keep using an ironing motion to cover the
> > > > board completely with even amounts of heat.
> > > > Will look on the past posts and check out your photo's.
> > > >
> > > > Thank you for your reply John
> > > >
> > > > Rod
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> > > > On Behalf Of John Clonts
> > > > Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 10:42 AM
> > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> > > >
> > > > Hi Rod,
> > > >
> > > > I'm brand new at this too. I used the laserjet toner method. I got an HP
> > > > P1102w laser jet on ebay for $60. Printed on a junk mail "slick" page, and
> > > > ironed on the board (I bought a $22 laminator but I don't think it gets hot
> > > > enough so I used the iron). Etched with the FeCl. I was extremely pleased
> > > > with my first result. See my photos I just posted last week under "JCC
> > > > First Board".
> > > >
> > > > Cheers,
> > > > John
> > > >
> > > > On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 11:20 PM, Rodney Jackson <
> > > > rodney.jackson@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks for that Erik, I do not have a CNC mill, unfortunately, I was going
> > > > > to try building one as I was able to afford to, but the old body is a
> > > > > little
> > > > > too shaky these days for such precision work.
> > > > >
> > > > > I have tried the ferric acid route before, this was in the days of laying
> > > > > tracks with the strips and pads transfers. I might have to look for a
> > > > cheap
> > > > > laser printer and have another crack at it that way.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Rod
> > > > >
> > > > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> > > > > On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> > > > > Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 4:12 AM
> > > > >
> > > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> > > > >
> > > > > Rod,
> > > > >
> > > > > There are 3 different methods people usually use. Positive or
> > > > > negative photo resist, toner transfer and milling. It really depends
> > > > > on what equipment you have or want to buy. If you have a CNC mill
> > > > > then milling the boards may be a better option. If you have a high
> > > > > resolution (1200 DPI) laser printer and a laminator, toner transfer
> > > > > would be a good option. I've seen great results with the photo resist
> > > > > but I've never tried it and not sure what is involved.
> > > > >
> > > > > As for etching a lot of people use air regenerated Cupric Chloride.
> > > > > Ferric chloride is an option but cupric chloride you can pretty much
> > > > > use indefinitely by regenerating it with air or hydrogen peroxide.
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Erik L. Knise
> > > > > Seattle, WA
> > > > >
> > > > > On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 2:35 AM, Rodney Jackson
> > > > > <rodney.jackson@ <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> > > > > >
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Thank you Erik for your reply. I have been trawling through the site you
> > > > > > mentioned, it is indeed full of useful information.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Seems like I will be days in getting through it all. I have made boards
> > > > > in
> > > > > > years past, these were by using stick on tracks and pads, a most arduous
> > > > > > task and the results looked very much what
> > > > > >
> > > > > > they were, __amateurish.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > There is a wealth of information in this world, one only has to FIND
> > > > it..
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Kind regards,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Rod.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > >
> > > > > [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > > > >
> > > > > > On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> > > > > > Sent: Tuesday, 17 May 2011 12:28 AM
> > > > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:
> > > > > Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > One of the members here, DJ Delorie, has an awesome website:
> > > > > > http://www.delorie.com/pcb/
> > > > > >
> > > > > > On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 11:37 PM, Rodney <rodney.jackson@
> > > > > <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> > > > > > <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au> > wrote:
> > > > > >> G'day all,
> > > > > >> as a newbie I guess this is the first question asked by all other
> > > > > newbies.
> > > > > > Could you point me to a F.A.Q. area where I might get some idea of
> > > > making
> > > > > > PCB's. I.E. best methods, how to reuse an old deskjet printer, etc...
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> Kind regards,
> > > > > >> Rod
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --
> > > > > > Erik L. Knise
> > > > > > Seattle, WA
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > > ------------------------------------
> > > >
> > > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>