Sorry if this has been answered before but so far I have read that people use shiny paper. What type of paper seems to work good for the toner transfer method? I was thinking something in-expensive like magazine paper.
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Piers Goodhew <piers@...> wrote:
>
> G'day Rod,
>
> I use the edge of the iron - no holes and more pressure (plus various passes of the flat of it - if you're moving the holes don't have much effect). If you're doing any sort of volume, I think a laminator would make a lot of sense. But I'm not doing volume. The fact that our generic toner cart's getting low is causing a lot more trouble than lack-of-stick-to-the-board.
>
> PG
>
> On 19/05/2011, at 2:56 PM, Rodney Jackson wrote:
>
> > G'day John,
> > I have thought of using this method, the problem is, I am unable to find an
> > old flat iron (as different from steam iron)
> > I know not to use water in a steam iron but the things these days have too
> > many holes in the soul plate.
> > Suppose I could still use one and keep using an ironing motion to cover the
> > board completely with even amounts of heat.
> > Will look on the past posts and check out your photo's.
> >
> > Thank you for your reply John
> >
> > Rod
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of John Clonts
> > Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 10:42 AM
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> >
> > Hi Rod,
> >
> > I'm brand new at this too. I used the laserjet toner method. I got an HP
> > P1102w laser jet on ebay for $60. Printed on a junk mail "slick" page, and
> > ironed on the board (I bought a $22 laminator but I don't think it gets hot
> > enough so I used the iron). Etched with the FeCl. I was extremely pleased
> > with my first result. See my photos I just posted last week under "JCC
> > First Board".
> >
> > Cheers,
> > John
> >
> > On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 11:20 PM, Rodney Jackson <
> > rodney.jackson@...> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks for that Erik, I do not have a CNC mill, unfortunately, I was going
> > > to try building one as I was able to afford to, but the old body is a
> > > little
> > > too shaky these days for such precision work.
> > >
> > > I have tried the ferric acid route before, this was in the days of laying
> > > tracks with the strips and pads transfers. I might have to look for a
> > cheap
> > > laser printer and have another crack at it that way.
> > >
> > >
> > > Rod
> > >
> > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> > > On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> > > Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 4:12 AM
> > >
> > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> > >
> > > Rod,
> > >
> > > There are 3 different methods people usually use. Positive or
> > > negative photo resist, toner transfer and milling. It really depends
> > > on what equipment you have or want to buy. If you have a CNC mill
> > > then milling the boards may be a better option. If you have a high
> > > resolution (1200 DPI) laser printer and a laminator, toner transfer
> > > would be a good option. I've seen great results with the photo resist
> > > but I've never tried it and not sure what is involved.
> > >
> > > As for etching a lot of people use air regenerated Cupric Chloride.
> > > Ferric chloride is an option but cupric chloride you can pretty much
> > > use indefinitely by regenerating it with air or hydrogen peroxide.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Erik L. Knise
> > > Seattle, WA
> > >
> > > On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 2:35 AM, Rodney Jackson
> > > <rodney.jackson@... <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> > > >
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Thank you Erik for your reply. I have been trawling through the site you
> > > > mentioned, it is indeed full of useful information.
> > > >
> > > > Seems like I will be days in getting through it all. I have made boards
> > > in
> > > > years past, these were by using stick on tracks and pads, a most arduous
> > > > task and the results looked very much what
> > > >
> > > > they were, __amateurish.
> > > >
> > > > There is a wealth of information in this world, one only has to FIND
> > it..
> > > >
> > > > Kind regards,
> > > >
> > > > Rod.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > >
> > > [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > >
> > > > On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, 17 May 2011 12:28 AM
> > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:
> > > Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > >
> > >
> > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > One of the members here, DJ Delorie, has an awesome website:
> > > > http://www.delorie.com/pcb/
> > > >
> > > > On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 11:37 PM, Rodney <rodney.jackson@...
> > > <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> > > > <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au> > wrote:
> > > >> G'day all,
> > > >> as a newbie I guess this is the first question asked by all other
> > > newbies.
> > > > Could you point me to a F.A.Q. area where I might get some idea of
> > making
> > > > PCB's. I.E. best methods, how to reuse an old deskjet printer, etc...
> > > >>
> > > >> Kind regards,
> > > >> Rod
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Erik L. Knise
> > > > Seattle, WA
> > > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
>