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Subject: Re: Toner transfer failure

From: "tda7000" <Tda7000@...>
Date: 2011-03-24

I would assume this is not so, the printer is probably fixed at a certain temperature and using other toner would cause problems.
(I may be entirely wrong)

I would look into finding out the correct temperature and increasing the laminator temperature.

Just make sure the laminator can withstand it, especially if you need to go over 170 degrees, at that temperature the plastic case warps on the top of mine.

I notice a few people have changed the end-mounts which hold the rollers\motor as the standard plastic ones on some laminators seem to fail under the higher temperatures.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "David C. Partridge" <david.partridge@...> wrote:
>
> Oh bother! I really don't want to have to buy another laser printer! Does anyone know if there is a lower melting point toner (another brand perhaps) that will work with the HP 4000 series LaserJets?
>
> Either that or I will need to make modifications to the laminator to increase its temperature range, proably a PID
>
> Thanks
> Dave
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of RJ
> Sent: 24 March 2011 00:28
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner transfer failure
>
> I tried our newer HP laserjet printer at work and its a no go getting the toner to stick well. Gave up and used our newer Canon instead ..
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "tda7000" <Tda7000@> wrote:
> >
> > I have tried the transfer with cleaning the boards and without and I couldn't see much of a difference.
> >
> > Sounds to me like the Toner you are using has a higher melting point than other toners.
> >
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, kabowers@ wrote:
> > >
> > > On Wed, 23 Mar 2011 13:43:32 -0700, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >Scotchbrite is a line of abrasive products from 3M. The green
> > > >colored pads work well. I got good results by using the green pad
> > > >and water to remove the surface layer, then soap + hot water to
> > > >remove the bulk of dirt and oils. After drying, I used a clean,
> > > >lint free wipe and acetone to make sure the surface was free of oils.
> > > >
> > > >I also found that different irons vary significantly in how hot
> > > >they get. One of our irons worked much better than the other.
> > > >
> > > >You may want to check into a laminator instead of an iron.
> > > >
> > > >-Pete
> > > >
> > > >
> > > To prepare a board for toner transfer I've had good results by first
> > > giving the board a really good scrubbing with green Scotchbrite and
> > > dishwashing detergent. I follow this with a hot water rinse. Then I
> > > spray it down with Orange Blast and let it sit for a few minutes.
> > > Next is a good rinse in hot water. Finally I wash the board with
> > > 93%+ Isopropyl Alcohol from the drugstore then dry the board with a fan.
> > >
> > > I like the alcohol instead of acetone; I think it's easier on the body.
> > >
> > > Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
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>
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