This is the laminator I use:
http://ultrakeet.com.au/index.php?id=article&name=superfuserThe larger the boards the more passes are needed through it. Some small boards work in just 1 or 2! but one of the big ones I did a while back had to go through about 15 times IIRC.
If yours doesn't have electronic control and instead uses a thermal switch you can probably still modify it anyway by replacing the thermal switch with another of higher temperature, see:
http://ultrakeet.com.au/index.php?id=article&name=fritzHackI clean with a wet pot scourer and then acetone, but in previous tests I found that cleaning with acetone is not actually necessary for the toner to stick.
However I do it now anyway because of the surprising amount of dirt that comes off when using the acetone!
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Randy S." <rj3819@...> wrote:
>
> Heres an interesting approach ..
> http://www.pulsarprofx.com/pcbfx/main_site/pages/tech_support/tips_n_tricks/1.html
>
>
> Randy
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 4:59:17 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
>
> Â
> Off the PulsarProFx site:
>
> Our amateur research led us to understand a few very important correlations
> between three basic properties of toner:
> 1) HEAT & PRESSURE - makes toner sticky ("fuse")
> 2) PRESSURE - determines at what temperature toner will "fuse"
> 3) TEMPERATURE - determines at what point toner will "melt"Randy
>
> ________________________________
> From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 4:19:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
>
> Â
> Hey .. Paul
> I'll take that as a yes ..
> LMAO ..
>
> and thanks
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Paul Mateer <paul.aa9gg@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 2:00:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
>
> YES!!!
>
> On Thu, Feb 17, 2011 at 12:56 PM, Randy S. <rj3819@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Can not soaking the board for long enough prior to rubbing it off with your
> >
> > thumb
> > cause the toner to come off the board?
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...>
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:48:14 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
> >
> > I used a modified GBC laminator. Check "Another GBC Laminator Mod" in
> > the Photos area for pictures.
> >
> > On 2/17/2011 1:19 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> > >
> > > Which laminator do you use and if its not available .. have any
> > > suggestions?
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: Andrew <a_wake@... <mailto:a_wake%40earthlink.net>>
> > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:
> > Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:01:23 PM
> > > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
> > >
> > > Randy,
> > >
> > > The advantage of a laminator is repeatability / consistency -- but
> > > only if the
> > > laminator gets hot enough. Even with a hot enough laminator, most
> > > people need to
> > > make multiple passes to get a good transfer.
> > >
> > > You can get good transfers with an iron, but it becomes a little
> > > harder to
> > > adjust the variables -- was it too hot, or was I pressing too hard, or
> > > both, or
> > > ??? With an iron, I do think it helps to have a hard, non-heat-conductive
> > > surface underneath, with some paper over top to help prevent
> > > over-heating and/or
> > > smearing.
> > >
> > > With either iron or laminator, I've never pre-heated the board; the
> > > board (and
> > > particularly the copper layer) heats up very quickly. Your mention of
> > > the board
> > > "sizzling" sounded way too hot to me.
> > >
> > > As others have said, HP toners generally work very well; you will want
> > > to print
> > > as densely as possible. The board needs to be very clean and dry; do
> > > not use any
> > > cleaners/solvents that will leave oily residue behind. I generally
> > > scrub the
> > > board with dish soap and water using a green scotch-brite pad, and
> > > then do a
> > > final wipe down with acetone. Do not touch the surface of the board after
> > > cleaning it!
> > >
> > > I have made some decent boards using an iron. I now have a nice
> > > laminator with
> > > temperature and speed control, and it does increase the ease and
> > > consistency and
> > > therefore the speed with which I can make boards. I have also had
> > > better results
> > > with double-sided boards using the laminator.
> > >
> > > The nice thing is that you can easily and cheaply experiment to find
> > > what works
> > > to give you good, consistent results. If a board transfers badly, just
> > > wipe it
> > > off with acetone (or scrub it off), reclean the board, and try again!
> > >
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Randy S." <rj3819@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > ok .. thanks
> > > > and yes .. have a thermocouple probe ..
> > > > I cant set the laminator temp ..
> > > > I guess its a cheaper "DUCK" laminator ..
> > > > But figured it was worth a try ..
> > > > I will try the preheat ...
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@>
> > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 12:25:40 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I really think is a problem with temperature. My procedure derived from
> > > > much experimenting is to set the laminator to 275F, preheat the
> > > board to
> > > > around 250F, run the board through the laminator twice, preheat
> > > again to
> > > > 250F and pass through two more times. The reason you have to preheat
> > > > again is because it will cool by the second pass. Do not depend on the
> > > > laminator to heat the board. It will not. Do you have a thermocouple
> > > > probe to take measurements?
> > > >
> > > > On 2/17/2011 12:00 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > ok on the HP Toners ..
> > > > > I ran it thru the laminator ..and there was no sign of the toner even
> > > > > having thoughts of sticking to the board ..
> > > > > Either toner .. post office or the HP .. i guess its just not getting
> > > > > hot enough ..
> > > > > Are there popular laserjet printers used for PCB's ??
> > > > > I will keep trying .. and will try the paper towels ..
> > > > >
> > > > > Randy
> > > > >
> > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > From: "kabowers@ <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>"
> > > > > <kabowers@ <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>>
> > > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 9:15:51 AM
> > > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well
> > > > >
> > > > > On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 22:09:39 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > >OK .. went from the problem with the traces running together
> > > > > >to the toner not sticking well to the copper ..
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Can it be that I'm not heating long enough ?
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Or can it also be that specific toner ?
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Its from a newer model HP copier ..
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Randy
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > The variables have variables. Unless HP has changed their toners work
> > > > > great.
> > > > > I run mine (1022) at the highest quality/density setting.
> > > > >
> > > > > There's a "sweet spot" between time, temperature and size of board.
> > > > > I did a 4x6 board a couple of days ago using with the iron set
> > halfway
> > > > > between cotton and linen and ironed for 2.5 minutes with moderate
> > > > > pressure.
> > > > > Pay special attention to the edges. I paced the board in a folded
> > > Bounty
> > > > > paper towel and used an old cutting board for support.
> > > > >
> > > > > I use Hammermill OficeOne Business Glossy 32# paper (16302-0) which
> > > > > may be discontinued. If you "overcook" this stuff it's almost
> > > > > impossible to
> > > > > get off without pulling the toner off the copper. "Undercooking"
> > > > > results in
> > > > > failure to adhere; "overcooking" or slippage results in smeared
> > > traces.
> > > > >
> > > > > I recently failed to properly support a board in the center and
> > > had to
> > > > > strip
> > > > > with acetone and start over due to traces running together; lesson
> > > > > learned.
> > > > >
> > > > > A couple of years ago someone here suggested placing the board
> > between
> > > > > sheets of paper towel; this resulted in a major improvement for me.
> > > > >
> > > > > Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >Â
> >
>
> --
> Paul Mateer, AA9GG
> Elan Engineering Corp.
> www.elanengr.com
> NAQCC 3123, SKCC 4628, FPQRP 2003
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
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