I have a what looks like a brand new GC catalog right here in my hand. It says
1-800-435-2931 customer service. A division of GC thorsen Inc. 1801 Morgan
Street Rockford, IL I don't see a web site posted on it.
Stefan Trethan wrote:
> i fear i can't get exactly that one, thus i am asking..
> (not even know what gc electronics is...)
> do they have online descriptions of products?
>
> st
>
> On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 09:16:17 -0400, Don Perry <mojo@...> wrote:
>
> > The pen from GC electronics Cat # 22-222 is black with 1/64 tip. Not
> > sure just what the tip might be, but its not metal. They do dry out
> > easy, so be sure to cap it when your done. But the price was only $2.XX
> > something each at my local store. My plotter was $40 from the scrap
> > yard and is a HP7475.
> >
> > Don Perry wrote:
> >
> >> I have the plotter running - slow. And I always add angle to each 90
> >> deg trace
> >> in the artwork. A short trace placed in the inside corner of each
> >> trace. The
> >> angle is the shortest one that fits for the trace width. That helps
> >> and touchup
> >> after plotting does too. I also sometimes keep the pcb in the
> >> plotter after
> >> its done, and replot after it has dried 15-20. That CG pen I use
> >> doesn't seem
> >> to scrape ink off on retracing.
> >>
> >> Stefan Trethan wrote:
> >>
> >> > which tip has this pen?
> >> > which color has the ink?
> >> >
> >> > maybe i really have to search this bottle of fe3cl... and then try
> >> > different inks.
> >> >
> >> > The problem with using pens directly for me was that line with
> >> varies with
> >> > speed.
> >> > at the corners the pen slows down and the line with increases.
> >> > i didn'tlike this, the were small tears at both sides of each
> >> corner.
> >> >
> >> > don't you have this problem with the resist pen?
> >> >
> >> > st
> >> >
> >> > On Sat, 20 Sep 2003 21:06:55 -0400, Don Perry <mojo@...>
> >> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > > Here's what works for me, I use a HP 7475 pen plotter with a slot
> >> cut in
> >> > > the
> >> > > case. I use a GC #22-222 Etch Resist Ink Pen. 1/64 " tip. Its
> >> fitted
> >> > > into a
> >> > > drilled and honed out dried up HP pen. I have to keep etching
> >> fast. I
> >> > > heat Fe
> >> > > CL3 on my grill outside, in a oven dish. Wear glasses, gloves,
> >> and
> >> > > apron. I
> >> > > use a oven baster to spray the center of the project. The edges
> >> seem to
> >> > > eat
> >> > > off first and I keep the acid going to the board center. This is
> >> not a
> >> > > time to
> >> > > walk off and come back. I keep an eye on the board till it is
> >> complete.
> >> > > You
> >> > > can always put it back in, but once its eaten the copper away its
> >> done.
> >> > >
> >> > > Stefan Trethan wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > >> @Dave
> >> > >> thanks for the tip with laquer thinner for solving colophony
> >> resin.
> >> > >> i tried it and it is much better than alcohol.
> >> > >> The "laquer" is the same density / concentration in the whole
> >> jar, it
> >> > >> stays
> >> > >> good dissolved without stirring etc.
> >> > >> with alcohol it was always thicker at the bottom (with acetone
> >> too).
> >> > >> Dries quick and leaves a shiny coat.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> I actually tried it as a resin for etching (because the quality
> >> is much
> >> > >> better now).
> >> > >> The problem is the plotter pens i have (carbide tipped) don't
> >> leave a
> >> > >> thick
> >> > >> enough layer to resist HCl H2O2.
> >> > >> I will try repeated plotting and maybe try Fe3Cl which i have
> >> standing
> >> > >> around somewhere (Does it decay in a sealed Bottle?).
> >> > >>
> >> > >> But i applied it with a piece of wire and with a piece of a paper
> >> towel
> >> > >> "disposeable brush with needle-nose pliers handle).
> >> > >>
> >> > >> And this areas resisted the etching very well.
> >> > >> So i think the plotter pens simply make a too thin layer.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> any ideas? - would be great to solder the boards with resin layer
> >> and
> >> > >> also
> >> > >> protection against corrosion.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> st
> >> > >>
> >> > >>
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