Archive of the former Yahoo!Groups mailing list: Homebrew PCBs

and it has nylon tip?
or felt?
or metal?

thanks

st

On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 09:05:57 -0400, Don Perry <mojo@...> wrote:

> I have the plotter running - slow. And I always add angle to each 90 deg
> trace
> in the artwork. A short trace placed in the inside corner of each trace.
> The
> angle is the shortest one that fits for the trace width. That helps and
> touchup
> after plotting does too. I also sometimes keep the pcb in the plotter
> after
> its done, and replot after it has dried 15-20. That CG pen I use doesn't
> seem
> to scrape ink off on retracing.
>
> Stefan Trethan wrote:
>
>> which tip has this pen?
>> which color has the ink?
>>
>> maybe i really have to search this bottle of fe3cl... and then try
>> different inks.
>>
>> The problem with using pens directly for me was that line with varies
>> with
>> speed.
>> at the corners the pen slows down and the line with increases.
>> i didn'tlike this, the were small tears at both sides of each corner.
>>
>> don't you have this problem with the resist pen?
>>
>> st
>>
>> On Sat, 20 Sep 2003 21:06:55 -0400, Don Perry <mojo@...> wrote:
>>
>> > Here's what works for me, I use a HP 7475 pen plotter with a slot cut
>> in
>> > the
>> > case. I use a GC #22-222 Etch Resist Ink Pen. 1/64 " tip. Its
>> fitted
>> > into a
>> > drilled and honed out dried up HP pen. I have to keep etching fast. I
>> > heat Fe
>> > CL3 on my grill outside, in a oven dish. Wear glasses, gloves, and
>> > apron. I
>> > use a oven baster to spray the center of the project. The edges seem
>> to
>> > eat
>> > off first and I keep the acid going to the board center. This is not
>> a
>> > time to
>> > walk off and come back. I keep an eye on the board till it is
>> complete.
>> > You
>> > can always put it back in, but once its eaten the copper away its
>> done.
>> >
>> > Stefan Trethan wrote:
>> >
>> >> @Dave
>> >> thanks for the tip with laquer thinner for solving colophony resin.
>> >> i tried it and it is much better than alcohol.
>> >> The "laquer" is the same density / concentration in the whole jar, it
>> >> stays
>> >> good dissolved without stirring etc.
>> >> with alcohol it was always thicker at the bottom (with acetone too).
>> >> Dries quick and leaves a shiny coat.
>> >>
>> >> I actually tried it as a resin for etching (because the quality is
>> much
>> >> better now).
>> >> The problem is the plotter pens i have (carbide tipped) don't leave a
>> >> thick
>> >> enough layer to resist HCl H2O2.
>> >> I will try repeated plotting and maybe try Fe3Cl which i have
>> standing
>> >> around somewhere (Does it decay in a sealed Bottle?).
>> >>
>> >> But i applied it with a piece of wire and with a piece of a paper
>> towel
>> >> "disposeable brush with needle-nose pliers handle).
>> >>
>> >> And this areas resisted the etching very well.
>> >> So i think the plotter pens simply make a too thin layer.
>> >>
>> >> any ideas? - would be great to solder the boards with resin layer and
>> >> also
>> >> protection against corrosion.
>> >>
>> >> st
>> >>
>> >>
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