6;8 k should be OK
The best way is to put a trim resistor so that you can adjust easily the
value.
A friend of mine bought exactly the same GBC as mine, and his resistor
value wasn't the same as mine for the same temperature !
You should always check the temperature and stop the laminator if it
climbs aboce 195° C
The epoxy walls are really perfect, they don't deform at all.
Furthermore the little "cut" across the wall acts as a spring and allow
deformation when the PCB is to thick
I have already milled 3 laminators.
Two are working like a charm and I have no news of the third one (should
be OK too !)
JP
Le 19/09/2010 23:16, Gokhan Nalbant a écrit :
> Well, if the laminator can stand that high temperature I prefer this method,
> since my HP toner needs 170ºC, I suppose. Using thick epoxy gives enough
> headache to the laminator, so decreasing the number of passes can be a
> better way. I don't have any resistor around 7K, the nearest one is 6K8 1/4w
> metal film %1 tolerance. Would it be too low?
>
> Regards.
>
> GN
>
> 2010/9/19 freedom2000<freedom2000@...>
>
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> 150+C is definitvely not enough
>>
>> I have climbed up to 190°C (peak)
>>
>> You shoud increase your resistor a bit (7 K ohm)
>>
>> JP
>>
>> Le 19/09/2010 20:50, Gokhan Nalbant a écrit :
>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> I have GBC H65 laminator, I modified it according to the instructions as
>>> stated below link.
>>>
>> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
>>> I replaced the R1 with a 8K2 metal film resistor and as it states the
>>> temperature should be around 150°C and that should be sufficient for
>> proper
>>> toner transfer. I am using 1.5mm/0.06" epoxy cards, they are thick for
>> that
>>> laminator but a little help just meoves them in to the laminator.
>>>
>>> My printer is HP P1005 and although I used several transfer papers
>> including
>>> the one from Pulsar, I could not succeed transfering the toner. I was
>>> successful using an iron, it seems that 150°C is not enough to heat the
>> HP
>>> toner.
>>>
>>> Should I lower the value of the resistor for a higher degree or use
>> another
>>> printer, such as I have also Xerox 3117?
>>>
>>>
>>> GN
>>>
>>> <
>> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
>>>
>>> 2010/9/19 RDHeiliger<rdheiliger@...<rdheiliger%40msn.com>>
>>>
>>>> I have had two of the GBC personal type laminators. They work fine for
>>>> lower temperature toners. After my old Minolta printer with low
>> temperature
>>>> toner died, I bought an HP 1006. The temperature of the toner is much
>>>> higher. I added an external temperature control to the laminator to get
>> the
>>>> toner to transfer. The resulting problem was that so much heat is
>>>> transferred out thru the rollers that the plastic side frames melted.
>> The
>>>> roller bearings melted a slot in the side frames. I don't recommend this
>>>> laminator.
>>>>
>>>> I have since bought a laminator with a metal frame. AL18P. The feed rate
>> on
>>>> this laminator is much to high, I replaced the motor with a DC gear
>> motor
>>>> and a cheap variable 6-24 VDC power supply. The temperature control also
>> did
>>>> not go as high as the spec sheet said it would. The temperature sensor
>> looks
>>>> to be a glass bead diode. It is mounted on a spring loaded arm that
>> rides on
>>>> the feed roll. Moving the sensor about 1/4" away from the roll increases
>> the
>>>> temperature enough to get pretty consistent transfers. I also reduced
>> the
>>>> spring tension on the rollers to reduce the spreading of the traces. I
>> also
>>>> had a problem with the connections inside the heating elements. The
>> crimp
>>>> connections inside the glass tube heating elements got so hot that the
>>>> copper wires back to the control burned off. I had to stretch the
>> nichrome
>>>> elements out and make the connections outside of the glass tube. May
>> sound
>>>> like a lot of hassles but at least the side frames don't melt. It still
>>>> takes 3 passes thru the laminator to get good transfers.
>>>>
>>>> The direct toner methods seem promising, but the need of a separate
>>>> laminator to do the fusing doesn't give it much of an advantage over
>> just
>>>> using paper for the transfer.
>>>>
>>>> RD
>>>>
>>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------
>>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
>> Photos:
>>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>