Sorry guys .. my bad for the "POOL ETCHING SOLUTION" and being slow to get back to you faster.
The "pool etching" was just a "supposedly" funny way of saying that I use the Muriatic Acid and Hydrogen peroxide mix. I use this a receipe from here -
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/files/Acid_Etching/ (the DrugStoreHardware ...). I buy the Muriatc acid from AceHardware (actually you can find it everywhere) and the peroxide from Wallgreens . Plus I am very brutal (simple 2 parts a peroxide to 1 part of 30% muriatic acid). You don't have to be dead exact. I regenrate the solution using an aquarium pump. Yes, at the beginning you have a very active solution - etch in a ventilated area because it fumes a bit - but after you do some more etching you and up with CuCl (cupric chloride) which is the most used industrial etchant from what I've read. I've read that you can accelerate getting to CuCl if you throw in a copper pipe and bubble lots of air through - might be true - i never tried that. Beware if you go the "copper pipe" way - the reaction is a bit exotermic when you have the fresh mix. And .. POUR ACID IN PEROXIDE NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND !!! :)
I have the 25$/Creative laminator - works a wonder for what I do. Don't forget to wipe the board with acteone before doing the transfer. You should do the acetone the very last in your "cleaning" process. I am not sure if it is the solvent residue that remains on the board or just because the board is cleaner .. or both :)) .. but this really helps the toner on the very tin traces (4 mills) to stick and don't come of the board. I try to not scratch very deep the board - 3M scrubbing pads are a bit to harsh for very thin traces. I use the cooktop scrubing pads. I use Comet and Cerama Bryte pads I got from Safeway - saw them also at Lowes.
Calin
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "kumuzu1" <bulchandani@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> Morarcalin and others,
>
> I'm a bit of a newbie here.
>
> What was your experience like with the Laminator? The Pulsar site seems to suggest you need the 'Personal' one versus the 'Creative' one that you recommend. Personally, I'd rather use the 'Creative' one because it only costs ~$25 vs ~$75 for the 'Personal' one. Apparently, the Personal one runs at a higher temperature and this is critical for good transfers?
>
> Also, I have a Brother MFC 8840DN printer and I hear rumors that there is an issue with Brother toner? Is this true?
>
> I'm just embarking on this journey. I just tried making my first pcb with a laser cutter to do the paint removal but I found I etched away some traces while using the sponge/fe-cl etching method.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Macklin" <macklinbob@> wrote:
> >
> > I do the acetone first. The I use the Comet powder with bleach. Then I work
> > it over with the 3M green pad.
> >
> > Bob Macklin
> > K5MYJ
> > Seattle, Wa.
> > "Real Radios Glow In The Dark"
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "morarcalin" <morarcalin@>
> > To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 10:28 AM
> > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Before Ironing the Printed Schematic - what do
> > you?
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > I do this:
> > > 1 - Wash/clean with Comet powder then rinse with tap water
> > > 2 - Then wipe with Acetone
> > > 3 - Tonner transfer ... etch ... and so on
> > >
> > > I do not use a kitchen scrubbing pad (the harsh ones) but a cooktop
> > > scrubbing pad. Same thing as the standard 3M kitchen scrubbing pads but
> > > not as abrasive so it does not scratch the copper at all when used with
> > > Comet. I found out that scratches are not helping at all with very thin
> > > traces (I speak 5 mils traces or 0.5mm pads for LQFP packages). You should
> > > find Commet at any grocery store
> > >
> > > I found the second step to be absolutely essential. This forst cleans the
> > > board and second the acetone "remains" help the tonner to stick to the
> > > copper better. Be generous whit the acetone, use a kitchen paper towel and
> > > don't wipe the board dry, leave it air dry by itself (acetone evaporates
> > > almost instantaneous anyways). I usually do this right before "ironing".
> > > Bought my acetone from Home Depot or Lowes.
> > >
> > > Then etch with the usual "pool etching solution". I am never going back to
> > > FeCl ... :))
> > >
> > > I get consistent results each and every time. With a bit of care I was
> > > able to do 4 mill traces - 5 mil are already routine. My advice, don't
> > > skimp on buying a laminator - makes the difference. I got mine from here
> > > (http://www.presentationsdirect.com/gbc-heatseal-9-creative-pouch-laminator.html)
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Frank P" <qz9090@> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> There has been some discussion about removing toner from a PCB, but I was
> > >> wondering what do you guys use to clean the copper clad before you
> > >> iron-on your schematic to the copper?
> > >>
> > >> I suspect some of the answers might include the use of Scotch Brite
> > >> (nylon scrubbing pad) and one the following:
> > >>
> > >> a) actone
> > >> b) rubbing alcohol
> > >> c) Tarn-x (not sure of the spelling)
> > >>
> > >> What works best for you?
> > >>
> > >> Thanks.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Frank P.
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> > > Photos:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>