On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 12:55:46 -0000, you wrote:
>Hi Guys,
>
>I started trying to make my own PCB's three years ago, and joined this group a while back.
>
>I am wondering if any of you feel 100% confident about any particular method. I've tried 'em all - I've got a stack of laminators, chemicals, photo-exposers, rub-on stuff, special papers, twenty $IR#@!! software programs, the fancy bubbler etcher, enough bottles of every type of etchant ever invented to kill half of Philadelphia if I poured them in the water supply, even the fancy stuff that tin-plates the copper after etching, and - oh, yeah - three printers....
I have methods that are very reliable for 16 mil boards, decent for 12
mill boards, and occasionally chancy for 10 mil boards and 0.5 mm
chips.
>
>and I gotta tell ya, at the risk of sounding like a complete incompetent, I cannot for the life of me get a decent quality PCB no matter what I do, no matter what website I go to, no matter who's kit I buy.
Then you're doing something fundamentally wrong.
>
>I'm just about to give up and just order the d∗'d things from Sunstone and be done with it, but i thought I'd give this onnnnnnnnnnnnne last try............
>
>Is there ONE method for DIY'ing PCB boards that WORKS?? Or are all of them still "tweaky" random-chance methods, depending upon the phase of the moon, the humidity, what type of local mold spores are blowing in the air off the surrounding desert, whether your girlfriend is having her period, etc......for the %(^$#!!! method to actually work?
>
Pulsar blue paper, toner transfer, CuCl etchant (ferric chloride
works). Single or double sided boards.
>Honestly, I'm a perfectly good DIY'er who has made stuff on lathes, mills, by hand, in metal, wood, plastic, I mean just about everything under the sun, and some of the stuff I've made would knock your eyes out...but I can't seem to get a DIY PCB method I can depend on.
Firstly, where are you located (roughly). That may help for some
hands on.
Secondly, the cleanliness of the board is critical, I use bon-ami
scouring powder (chemical and abrasive), sand with 1000 or 1200 grit
wet or dry, and then rinse with acetone. Wear gloves.
Laser printer on Pulsar paper, avoid brother because of toner
temperature problems, older printer is better because you can set the
print density to maximum.
Print on paper first, tape pulsar paper (sized) to paper, run through
once.
Laminate. Experience needed to get it right, typically four to 8
passes through laminator at laminator's maximum temperature. Go
directly from laminator to room temperature water to soak paper. Hold
paper onto board with laser label strip. Also use same strip to hold
pulsar paper on 8 1/2 by 11 backing.
Green foil helps. cut smaller than board, smooth on, run through at
least twice, allow to cool, pull off. Transparent parts should be
absolutely clear. Foil left on board should be shiny.
Fix bits of board not quite covered with sharpie marker or the
equivalent.
Etch in solution of your choice. I suspend by wire, do not allow
boards to bang on each other, it can damage the surface.
Clean with solvent after rinsing, tin plate if desired.
Works for me.
Harvey
>
>Anybody out there with a proven method and equipment that You'd bet your life on?
I'd never bet my life on something like that, but it ∗did∗ take a bit
of experimenting to get the hang of the process variables.
H.
>
>Best, Charlie
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
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