The idea is to mix the copper and adhesive powders together and then pull off a single layer with tape. I would then tack the exposed side down, pull off the tape and then attach the other side. This is basically what is done with the 3M tapes.
The real trick may be finding a tape that is less sticky than the adhesive when I tack the exposed side down. I am thinking the adhesive on post-it notes may work.
I experimented with the graphite and epoxy, but never could get a conducting connection. I think the epoxy just completely coats and insulates the graphite so current is unable to flow. By doing a single powder layer of adhesive and copper I am hoping I can keep the conducting sides exposed.
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Charles R. Patton" <charles.r.patton@...> wrote:
>
> As a side note, powered hot-melt adhesive would be hard to apply
> evenly. If you only wanted to do bonding (without needing the
> conductive additive) I would suggest using photo-mount paper available
> from camera/photo supply stores. This is a very thin (probably about 1
> or 2 milli-inches) sheet of hot-melt on a carrier release paper and
> especially good on paper and archival mounting of photos in scrapbooks,
> etc.
>
> Another technique for conductive traces was to add graphite powder to
> epoxy. Totally load the harder with graphite to form a paste then add
> the other part (the resin) and use immediately. Adding the graphite to
> the resin was not recommended as it could case the resin to harden. As
> a thought, use a two-part urethane and add the graphite to it, and
> screen print it. This is essentially what some some of the flexible LCD
> flex connectors are, screen printed conductive graphite ink on plastic
> (polyester or Kapton). You could also use a solvent based carrier
> vehicle if you wanted to -- the key would be to really load it up with
> graphite.
>
> Regards,
> Charles Patton
>