Anyone want to try this silver-filled conductive epoxy from Master Bond and report back?
<
http://www.masterbond.com/tds/ep21tdcs.html>
Donald.
----- "Chris" <
lcdpublishing@...> wrote:
> Confirmed - JB Weld is not conductive.
>
> Chris
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Frank P" <qz9090@...> wrote:
> >
> > JB Weld is not conductive...
> >
> > http://www.jbweld.net/faq.php
> >
> > Frank P.
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, AGSCalabrese <agscal@> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > On Jun 5, 2010, at 2:13 PM, Chris wrote:
> > > >
> > > > One of the things I don't like about making PCBs is soldering in a
> > > > bunch of wires to connect top traces to bottom traces. The more
> > > > surface mount stuff I use, the more often I need to add special vias
> > > > as I no longer have component legs to use for that purpose.
> > > >
> > > > I have used J-B Weld on a number of "emergency fixes" over the years
> > > > and have been impressed with its utility. I believe this is a
> > > > metalized epoxy which I assume should be conductive. I just mixed up
> > > > a smal batch and will have to wait till late tonight or tomorrow to
> > > > check it when it finally cures.
> > > >
> > > > If this does conduct, then I was thinking I could apply this way....
> > > >
> > > > 1) Etch board
> > > > 2) Tin board
> > > > 3) apply clear contact paper to both faces of PCB
> > > > 4) Drill all via holes
> > > > 5) Use a spatula to smear the epoxy into all of the holes
> > > > 6) After curing, remove contact paper
> > > >
> > > > I suspect I might have small bumps of epoxy which if are a problem,
> > > > a light sanding would knock them down. If the sanding is required I
> > > > could put the board back in the liquid tin again.
> > > >
> > > > I probably won't be able to do a full test for a couple of weeks but
> > > > thought I would announce it to see if anyone else has tried this.
> > > >
> > > > Chris
> > > >
[snip]