The 12V proxxon will also work just fine.
I got one so I don't need to take the industrial one out of the drill
stand for other jobs.
It was cheap, maybe 20eur or so, the industrial mains powered one was
5 times as much.
ST
On Wed, May 26, 2010 at 1:22 AM, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
> On Tue, 25 May 2010 16:02:07 -0400, you wrote:
>
>>Is a dremel adequate for drilling pcbs using carbide drills? I know
>>it isn't good enough for pcb routing, but just for drilling?? If not,
>>what is a good, small, reasonably priced alternative?
>
> A dremel will work with carbide drills and the dremel stand.
>
> Having said that, the runout (wobble) on a dremel is rather nasty, and
> limits your ability to do fine holes (say #75 or so). Drill wobbles
> too much and makes too big a hole. The drill press attachment is
> wobbly at best.
>
> I have a (more expensive) Proxxon. It's the industrial model, 120
> vac, 20K rpm. Much better bearings, better collet. Have a bit of a
> homemade drill press stand, works reasonably well, no idea how good
> the proxxon stock model works.
>
> I like the Proxxon better, bought it after the Dremel (hand model, 70
> some dollars, nice kit, good for what it does, not as good for pcb
> drilling.)
>
> Harvey
>
>>
>>Mark
>>
>>
>>At 05:59 PM 5/24/2010, you wrote:
>>>On Mon, 24 May 2010 22:40:31 +0200, you wrote:
>>>
>>> >I think even with a single sided board the light shining through the
>>> >center of the pad might be enought to locate it depending on PCB
>>> >material. Or one could turn it over, of course.
>>>
>>>
>>>In my experience, trying to locate holes and align them, no. You
>>>wouldn't b happy with the results. I'd say either drill from bottom,
>>>right side up, or drill from top, top side down.
>>>
>>>Problem with turning the board over is not the dust collection, it's
>>>the large (and bulky) drill mechanism. Clamps are not always needed,
>>>but might help. Hydraulics are not needed, but a spring and solenoid
>>>might help.
>>>
>>>It does sound like an interesting project.
>>>
>>>Harvey
>>>
>>> >
>>> >ST
>>> >
>>> >On Mon, May 24, 2010 at 10:37 PM, Mark Lerman <mlerman@...> wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> I was thinking that the board would have to be upside down when you
>>> >> drilled it because the camera would have to see the top of the board,
>>> >> but you're right, there will be pads on the bottom of the board,
>>> >> too. Yes, camera on bottom is probably better, and certainly easier
>>> >> to implement. I've got a video otoscope that's made for close focus -
>>> >> have to give it a try.
>>> >>
>>> >> Mark
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >------------------------------------
>>> >
>>> >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>>> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>>------------------------------------
>>>
>>>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>------------------------------------
>>
>>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>