Start by checking with an electronic supplier....ie. resistors, capacitors, etc.. They sometimes carry the copper clad boards, as well as the etching fluids. Radio Shack, or now the "Source" in Canada also carried it at one time, but I find them a little more expensive..
Harvey L. McRae
838 McKenzie Road,
Kelowna, BC. V1X2B3.
www.harriscreekcentral.webs.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank P
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2010 10:28 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper
Ben,
Being very new to PCB etching, I wouldn't know where to begin to look for cupric chloride. Any hints? Do you handle it the same way as FeCl?
Also, what is the best way to dispose of etchant?
Thanks.
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Ben L" <bhleavi@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, DJ Delorie <dj@> wrote:
> >
> > FeCl would normally be a light or dark tan color. Black or green means
> > it's spent. The cheapest thing to try is to add some hydrogen peroxide
> > to it, which will convert some or all of the dissolved copper into a
> > cupric chloride etchant (emerald green). If that doesn't work, you'll
> > have to add some hydrochloric acid, effectively making an acid/peroxide
> > etchant that happens to have some spent FeCl in it.
> >
> > I've used old etchant that wasn't spent and it works just fine; it's not
> > the age that counts it's how much you've used it.
> >
>
> FeCl also works best Heated. I would really recommend the Cupric Cholride, it works great. I use to use FeCl but now that I use Cupric Cholride I'll never use FeCl again. Cupric Cholride also does great just at room temp. so no heating.
>
> Ben
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.819 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2880 - Release Date: 05/17/10 11:26:00
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]