Actually, there is another method that I've been experimenting with. It's
based on toner transfer and a glass paint called Pebeo Vitrea 160.
You can see some of the results I've obtained here:
http://retromaster.wordpress.com/pcb-making/. Just go down to the soldermask
section for the details.
Also, be sure to check out the "Remaining Issues" section. The way it was
applied on the board there, the soldermask is not very strong, as it came
off in several places (it is still a lot better than a PCB without a
soldermask). This is how it ended-up:
http://retromaster.files.wordpress.com/2010/05/ufe-sdram-la.jpgI've experimented with the two-step cure idea mentioned there, and that
seems to produce a much stronger soldermask that does not come off easily.
I'll soon update the PCB with results of the improved process.
On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 9:27 AM, micro_minded <iceblu3710@...> wrote:
>
>
> I just ran into this website (
> http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcb/etch/directinkjetresist.htm) that
> references this group. Turned an Epson into a flatbed printer.
>
> You can pick up an Epson R220 and the CISS ink cart on ebay for $40 each (
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Compatible-CISS-ink-Epson-R340-RX600-R300-R200-R220-/380120801532?cmd=ViewItem&pt=BI_Toner&hash=item5880f720fc#ht_4561wt_940)
>
>
> I have a lot of posts to read through still but I'm guessing some members
> here use think inkjet method and other use the laser printer method. That
> website says people have had good luck printing on a solder mask and
> component layer as I want to do. Looks like the ink can handle the reflow
> oven temperatures and should provide enough of a mask to keep solder paste
> from flowing down the tracks no?
>
> Anyways enough pondering for tonight, need to find some pics/posts and see
> what others have got to work.
>
>
>
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