I've been wondering about this oven method too. Lapping a slab of steel sounds like a chore though. I've lapped heatsinks before and that wasn't fun.
Yesterday there was a post here:
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/25632That describes a cheap silicone baking mat that may be useful between the steel plate and the board. Heat transfer may be improved so no need for lapping(?):
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/25632The link to the mat is:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009A9WU/?tag=thecelpho-20Regards, David WB4ONA
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Jim <jhutch17@...> wrote:
>
> Steve: Look at message
> http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/22175
> I used a preheated block of steel and a clamp ... I have had
> consistent results and rarely a failure ...
> the failure is usually poor cleaning or a finger print. The
> thermo-couple used plugs into my DVM
> The steel block was a "cut-off" and I used some fine grit sand-paper to
> lap the steel
> My method is not the same as yours but it shows you are on the right track
> I just bought an Lexmark E260D printer and will try the DLP(Direct Laser
> Printing) method ... as soon as Mark gives out the needed modifications ...
> Jim KI6MZ
>
> Steve Maroney wrote:
> > Hey Guys, I just attempted the Toner Transfer method by using my kitchen
> > oven. I preheated the oven and PCB to 300 degrees. It didn't work out
> > very well due to lack of the right amount and an even amount of pressure
> > across the board. This method could potentially work very well if I
> > had a suitable solid weight to put on top.
> >
> >
> >
> > Anyone ever try this ? Or If anyone attempts it, please post the
> > results.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Best Regards,
> >
> > Steve Maroney
> >
> >
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