Also I run stuff over the drum all the time. If you can run card stock through a machine, you can run the 8mil SS PCB stock( that I do ) also.
I do put Kapton tape on the leading edge. Paper is abrasive a anything else, try rubbing your glasses with it.
It not failed for me either. If it was to wear after N iterations, I'd get another printer and keep going.
I use a similar but different process and it works fine.
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Lee Studley <indigo_red@...> wrote:
>
> Sorry, but it bugs me when people jump in and say "it won't work, or
> sorry to rain on your parade"
>
> Ok, prove to me it ∗∗∗ WON'T∗∗∗ work.
>
> Have you tried it and failed with every possible variation, or are you
> just reading the wiki or "How it works" and
> making a global statement that hopefully true engineers won't listen too.
>
> I sorta like innovation. When we are kids, we can do anything.
> When we get older, people like tell us how we can't do things.
> Funny that the innovators are usually the young ones, or still young in
> mind.
>
> >Won't work anyway, the copper mucks up the static charge lasers use to
> get
> >the powder to stick to the drum, then transfer to the paper (or PCB here).
>
> Top of my head: Find a way to localize the charges by maybe sandpapering
> or pre-ectching
> for rough micro-peaks.
>