--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ghidera2000"
<ghidera2000@y...> wrote:
> I've been quite dissatisfied with my $20 soldering iron, takes
> upwards of half an hour to get hot, the tip oxidized in no time
> despite frequent tinning and solder seemed to like it waaay better
> than the parts I work on.
>
>
> Yesterday I picked up a Weller WTCPT station. Nothing fancy, no
> temperature knob or calibration touch-spots but I gotta say WOW.
What
> a difference!
>
> Heat up time was minutes, not exactly sure how long as I wasn't
> paying attention. I picked it up shortly after turning it on just
to
> see if it was warm and damned if it wasn't already at full
> temperature.
>
> Solder almost leaps away from the tip. What little I do pick up is
> easily wiped away. Quite wipe on a wet sponge and its shiny as all
> get out.
>
> Heat transfer is way better as well. About 1 second and the deed is
> done, the old iron took as much as five seconds to heat a DIP leg.
>
> Moral of the story - if you're still using a cheapo iron, DUMP IT
NOW
> and go buy a real soldering station - the difference is amazing.
My wife does stained glass and she would shoot me if I put a wet
sponge anywher near her irons. they make them start to oxidize and
in short order they won't remain tinned.
She uses a salaluminiac (sp?) block. one takes the hot iron and rubs
it on this block, adds flux, solder to the tip and then uses the
solder almost like a cleaner on the block.
I have to say, my $3.99 iron may take awhile to get hot, but I know
what you mean when you say leaping solder.
The other thing she has that I can use is liquid flux. if you have
ever tried to solder large copper connectors or wire the difference
when brushing on some flux is unbelievable.
normal cautions apply, don't use acid flux, it may work quickly on
old corroded stuff, but will also eat away at it. my plumbers acid
flux is just for emergencies. I think it's active ingredient is
either sulphuric acid or hydrochloric acid, it's been a long
awhile....
Dave