I am doing double sided etching of Brass, Beryllium Copper, and Phosphor Bronze to make small parts, and I find that when using a
Sharpie or Staedtler, a quickly stroked line that is semi-opaque will resist FeCl for only a few minutes. However, if carefully laid
down so as to be fully opaque, will resist for over an hour. CuCl seems to penetrate more quickly. Just my experiences.
Regards,
Roger
From:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
andrewmv@...Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2010 07:17
To:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.comSubject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Resist ink pens
I'm often finding that my toner transfer boards are ALMOST usable, but have a few trace breaks that need to be touched up by hand
before etching.
I've seen it said several places that ordinary Sharpie markers make suitable resist-ink for this purpose (I actually remember buying
an old Radio Shack home PCB kit that came with a Sharpie and called it a "resist ink pen").
I recently tried this using a Sharpie-brand "ultra fine-point, super-permanent ink" pen, but the FeCl ate right thought the ink.
Has anybody had lucks using Sharpies as resist-ink? Are there any recommendations on something better?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]