I was thinking the same as everyone the charge that will conduct on the
metal part of the board and have no electrostatic difference for the powder
to stick to the board but when I saw the 3kv power supply I think you are on
to something unique and that will work. Please post more details on how you
charge the board, is the powersupply on all the time and connected between
the drum and the board? how are making contact to the board and hv when it
is moving... lots of questions. please post details. I think this could be
the coolest breakthrough for direct printing, for all of us who have been
trying to do this for years.
Kim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Lerman" <mlerman@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2010 4:14 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] direct laser PCB
>
> A subject dear to my heart!
>
> I have spent the last six months experimenting with direct laser
> printing of PCBs, and I am now able to (fairly) reliably produce
> boards using this method. If anyone is interested I can share a LOT
> of details, but the Brother is NOT the way to go. I spent a month or
> so working with the HL-2170, as well as a few other false starts
> before settling on the Lexmark E260 as the printer of choice. The
> "straightness" of the path is relative, and all of the laser printers
> have to be modified to pass pcbs, although you can run the thin,
> somewhat flexible (eg 8 mil) boards through some of them. You cannot
> use the internal fuser.
>
> When I described some of my earlier efforts at direct laser pcb,
> there was some concern that the drum is too easily damaged. In the
> past months I have made several hundred "runs" through my modified
> printer, many of which were experimental, without proper smoothing
> and protecting of edges, and I am still using the same drum. I am
> still not sure of the limits of the process, but I have produced 5
> mil traces without problems.
>
> The steps are:
> 1 - Produce the artwork - I use Eagle.
> 2 - Print the pcb.
> 3 - Place board in oven to "fuse".
> 4 - Etch.
>
> One real advantage of direct laser pcb is that you can see the
> results instantly, and if the "image" is not perfect, you can just
> brush the toner off, wipe the board with acetone, and do another run!
>
> I was waiting till I had the process perfected before "publishing" on
> this forum, but if anyone is interested, I can provide details. You will
> need:
>
> 1 - A Laser Printer - I strongly recommend the Lexmark E260, on sale
> at Staples for $169 (?) with an additional $50 off if you bring in
> any dead printer for "recycling".
> 2 - A high voltage power supply to provide a variable Transfer
> Voltage. A 3KV (variable) at 100 microamps will do - Ebay is your friend.
> 3 - A high voltage relay to switch between the internal transfer
> voltage and the external supply is useful but not strictly necessary.
> 4 - A simple microprocessor board to spoof the sensors that need to
> be emulated and control the printer solenoids and such.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>