You ask a very good question there, I'm ∗almost∗ positive it's 260F, NOT 360F. 360 is almost up at 400F where the Brother laser I had required, but after changing to the HP P1006, the temperature requirements are less.
The temperature is read via a sensor mounted in place of the thermal switch I removed from $25 GBC laminator. The readout from the sensor was calibrated against a digital thermometer held against the input side of rollers. These are two different places and could be different. The PCB material is HOT as it comes out the rollers, but I can still hold in my hand... gently. If gripped tight, it would burn hand. I never use a tool to handle the PCB as it's ran thru the rollers.
I do need to work on my temperature controller with some sort of PID code - now it turns power off as temp gets to setpoint -8F, then temp rises to setpoint +2F typically before cooling down. At setpoint minus 10F (2F below where power is cycled off,) the heater is turned back on. This cycle continues so my toner transfer takes place from around 260F to about 272F. Run the PCB thru 6 or 8 times, I have very good results using either Pulsar toner transfer paper or HP presentation paper.
Those temperatures are NOT exact I'm sure, but I do think they are within a few degrees F. I need to work on calibration more... maybe put sensor in an ice water slush, then in boiling distilled water at sealevel.
Ken H.
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, DJ Delorie <dj@...> wrote:
>
>
> "sailingto" <sailingtoo@...> writes:
> > I do most of my toner transfer 260F to 270F.
>
> 260 F ? Or 360 F ?
>