Hi Genaro,
Unless my boards are going to be used in a particularly damp environment I
usually spray them with rework solder spray before soldering and use
no-clean fluxed solder. It helps to heat the boards up after spraying
because the flux takes a while to dry fully.
The flux can be left on the boards and protects the copper nicely. It is
also very easy to rework the boards at a later date.
If you use liquid flux it may be worth checking if it is safe to leave on
the board. I occasionally have to work on 30 year old electronic church
organs. All the pcbs were painted with liquid flux before assembly. The
copper is still bright today even when they have spent their life in a damp
church.
I use two techniques for soldering the top side if IC sockets. The first is
to use a very long, thin tip and solder normally. This is fine if there is
plenty of room. The second method is to use a standard tip on the solder
side to heat up the leg, then feed the solder in on the component side. It
helps to mount the board vertically in some sort of clamp so you can get to
both sides at the same time.
Les
> Thanks for those who replied. I am using the toner transfer method,
> so i guess my best bet is some tinnit. What i do to clean of the
> liquid flux is by using a toothbrush with rubbing alcohol to remove
> the excess. I have a few more questions, One, what is the best
> technique to solder an ic socket on double sided pcbs? And secondly,
> In Eagle Cad, how does one increase the width of the tracks when you
> autoroute a board? Thanks, Genaro
>