Archive of the former Yahoo!Groups mailing list: Homebrew PCBs

TO clarify, using the dry film type stuff, I would get blisters - sometimes. Nothing consistant about it from what I could determine. I could easily manipulate the dry film onto the board without bubbles (small boards) but after running through the laminator, blisters would appear and those never turned out good.

Other times I would have a simple break in a trace as if there was a cut line in the resist material (toner or dry film).

Toner works great sometimes and others it simply will not stick to the PCB. I have been usint the same: printer, toner, PCB material, paper, iron settings, cleaning process, etc. for over a year now. Sometimes it works great. somedays like the past few, nothing seems to work.

I ran over to Fry's electronics this morning and picked up some positive resist coated material. My first board failed in that I didn't expose long enough but otherwise the board looked great after etching (except where the resist didn't come off). I am currently exposing my second board and will know within a half hour or so if this one works out. So far it is actually a faster process than any of the others. I know that it comes at a cost (more expensive stock) but if it removes the problems it will save sanity. In some cases, it will actually be cheaper too if I am not trying and failing time after time wasting PCB stock, transparancy films, etchant, etc.

Hopefully this will work out and I can move on.

BTW, on my best day, I have never had a board look as good as yours.

Chris