--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, DJ Delorie <dj@...> wrote:
>
>
> "sailingto" <sailingto@...> writes:
> > DJ, how hot do you normally do toner transfer? I just got a new HP
> > P1006 printer today - any idea what temperature it should take for
> > toner transfer?
>
> I don't know if I do enough TT with the new heat control to say
> "normally" but the old control was for 320 F and was a bit too cold.
> 350 F seems to work better (HP 2550), but I need to try a few other
> temperatures to make sure I'm not getting it so hot it melts and
> deforms. The last board I did had traces so much wider they shorted
> in a few places, but that might have been the green TRF getting too
> hot also.
>
> The other thing I tried that seems to have helped is I used a
> rubber-soled push block to press the paper against the board on a cast
> iron table saw; which held the paper firmly in contact while quickly
> cooling it.
>
Hi all
Well it seems I have hit on a solution to temperature control that works for me :D I dismantled and old clothes iron. Removed it's bi-metal thermostatic control and fitted it to the laminator. The control was only held in the iron by a bolt so that and 2 wires later I had it fitted. The case needed fettling to allow fixing the unit back into it but it's all working. Set to a little over polyestor, 5 passes to heat the PCB and 10 to toner transfer.
The test PCB is fantastic! Crisp, clean, and no remeadial work needed as everything stuck as it should :D :D.
Please note this is playing with 240VAC!!!! Safety safety safety!!!