Leslie Newell wrote:
> steel go rusty. Some plastic containers are slightly porous so over time
> acid fumes can escape and rust any nearby steel.
Does anyone know if those black plastic "accordion bottles" used for darkroom
chemistry fall into this category? The ones I have are made from HDPE, if that
makes any difference.
> If you want to neutralize it, keep adding sodium bicarbonate (baking
> soda) or sodium carbonate (washing soda) until it stops fizzing. Washing
> soda is probably better because baking soda will fizz a lot so you will
> need to add it slowly. Another trick I have heard of is to mix it with
> cement. That way you end up with a neutralized block.
Admittedly this was for neutralising FeCl, but I was told that mixing the
stuff with Plaster of Paris would neutralise it and leave you with a solid
block that can be thrown away with normal rubbish. Can anyone confirm this?
I've got a 2-litre bottle of extremely diluted and somewhat polluted (with
etch-resist pen ink, of all things!) FeCl sitting in my cupboard, it's gotten
to the point where the bottle is lined with brown sludge, the bottle threads
are covered in green and white crystals (maybe CuCl?), and the solution itself
is dark brown and useless.
Still, there's another 2ltr bottle with 1.5l of CIF "hyper-activated" FeCl in
it, which works rather nicely in a bubble etch tank.
--
Phil.
ygroups@...http://www.philpem.me.uk/