Ammonium persulphate is clear, but can not be regenerated, and can be a
little finicky to work with if the ph and specific gravity aren't within
certain parameters. It's also the slowest etching method. This is really
good for teachers, otherwise, just pull it, rinse it, and inspect it. You
can't really see the traces that well when it's in the tank anyways, so
you'll still have to pull it out and rinse it to check the traces with a
loupe. It's really only good for the ooohs and ahhhs of first timers who
have never seen metal dissolve.
Acid Cupric Chloride is my favorite method, since you can continue to
regenerate it with O2, and you never have to dispose of any of it.
Here's a really good article on how to etch with Acid Cupric Chloride.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~eseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/index.html<http://members.optusnet.com.au/%7Eeseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/index.html>
Check it out. Easy to do, cheaper than the rest, and just as effective at
cutting nice sharp traces.
Peace!
-Mike
On Thu, Apr 23, 2009 at 8:05 PM, rickwendel763242 <
rickwendel763242@...> wrote:
>
>
> Muriatic Acid (28%) and Hydrogen Peroxid (3%)? Homemade stuff.
> Ammonium Persulphate. Powder? Liquid?
> Ferric Chloride?
> I hear that ferric chloride is the quickest but that Ammonium Persulphate
> is a clear solution that allows you to watch the etching process..
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]