What thickness of board are you talking about?
I have great success cutting 1/32 board with a carbide scoring tool from Home DEpot ($7)!
I use a good quality combination square I bought at Harbor freight on sale ($25).
I use a carbide scriber (Home Depot $5) to scratch the where the edge of the board is on both sides.
Then I hold the combination square next to the scoring tool blade after the point of the blade is set in the scribed mark.
Then I score each side 4 to 5 times then I snap it off on the edge of a board . After It is snapped off a couple of strokes with a file and the edge is smooth. This method works on 1/16 board also but the scoring needs more strokes.!
On rthe question of the combo brake/shear machine plastics etc. can be somewhat thicker than the metal specs ,as stell sheeting is harder to shear off!
73
Mike
________________________________
From: DJ Delorie <
dj@...>
To:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.comSent: Wednesday, April 1, 2009 7:30:42 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] v-scoring
Today's project was to see if I could cut v-scoring with a table saw.
I found an old steel plywood blade (no carbide to break off, lots of
teeth) and reground it to a V point:
∗ mount the blade backwards to avoid cutting your grinding wheels
∗ run the saw
∗ initial grind with an angle grinder
∗ use a 30-60-90 triangle to position a ginding stone for final grind.
GENTLE pressure is all that's needed, and very little actual grinding
time.
The result snapped cleanly and showed no signs of burning. Obvious
drawback is that plain steel will need sharpening more often, but it's
better than trying to resharpen a router bit or scrollsaw blade.
(yes, I know about metal shears, but I don't own one of those - yet)
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