Hi Roger,
Yes, I do remember. I lost interest a year ago, but got interested again recently when I got a Brother HL-2140 printer. The printer has a fairly flat manual feed slot and can be (relatively) easily modified to handle rigid boards. The gearing is also advantageous for what I want to do and since the paper path is horizontal rather than vertical (the ML-2510 I was using previously was vertical), that problem is also solved. One key to doing this is to datalog all the sensors so you are not dependent on the timing built into the printer. The Hl-2140 has 3 sensors you have to simulate, but they are easy to get to. One problem is that all these connectors and such are pretty fragile - they break loose or lose electrical contact - then you get ar error led and have no idea what's wrong.
I hope to get back to it next week and will give you an update. I'm going to actually print and etch a few boards on some 9 mil board and will post the results. The board is thin and flexable enough to pass through the printer with only a small modification - the eject sensor has to be fooled.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
>From: rogerfdupont <rogerdupont@...>
>Sent: Mar 15, 2009 9:32 AM
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Direct Laser PCB's (not TT)
>
>Hi mark,
>
>I don't know if you remember me, but some time ago I asked for your advices on modifing a HP 6L laser printer.
>
>I had the same problem you said about aluminiun sheet. When I print on the board, the lines are wavy and do not correctly conect each other.
>I think the surface is not perfectly flat...
>Do you have any idea? I was almost giving up, but since you mentioned the method...
>
>Roger Dupont
>
>
>
>
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