The stained glass people will generally disagree with you. You can solder
to it on a flat surface, but perhaps not when trying to fix a edge connector
- too small.
To create some patterns the foil is applied to the glass then soldered. Hot
& fast is the key - some people use 500 watt irons. Flux the foil, run the
iron along it, and apply the solder to the back of the iron tip. Not
something you see often, that's a fairly advanced technique. If you're
lifting the foil, you're taking too long. Turn up the heat.
The adhesive on the foil isn't actually needed, it's more of a convenience.
The solder provides the strength in a stained glass panel. The (very) old
timers used beeswax to hold the foil in place prior to soldering.
Still won't fix your edge connector though.
Tony
> Stained glass copper foil adhesive will not stand up to solder
> temperatures on a flat surface. I tried using it to repair a pc board
> edge connector - the adhesive failed before I could solder a 22 gauge
> wire to it.On stained glass it is crimped around the edges of the
> glass - which holds it in place while the adhesive re-solidifies.
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Tony Smith" <ajsmith@...> wrote:
>
> > >Anyone worked with copper foils? Got any sources for getting hold of
> some?
> >
> > you can get it at various handicraft stores like, Hobby Lobby, and
> > such . sometimes in the leaded glass section. they also usually have
> > in it in adhesive tape of various widths. intriguing notion, but
> > can't see worth the effort except as personal cool self expression
> > and enrichment. to drill glass, you must continually spray with water
>
>
> Foil typically comes in 10 metre (33') rolls, with widths from about
4mm -
> 10mm. The sizes are related to the thicknesses of glass, the copper is
> stuck to the edge for the glass and folded over, like [. Most glass
is 3mm
> thick.
>
> Note that the foil comes with different colour backing, that is the
adhesive
> side may not be copper. You can get copper (i.e. plain), silver &
black.
> When doing stained glass the different colours provide different
effects,
> you can see this side thru the glass.
>
> The adhesive will stand up to soldering for a short period, but it
will lift
> if overheated. This is bare copper, so you'll need to clean & flux it
> before soldering. Normal rosin core solder will work fine (I'd
still scrub
> it first) but the flux can be hard to get off. You're not likely to
crack
> the glass, 100 watt & over irons are normally used. Don't use a
torch, you
> will crack it then.
>
> I wouldn't use SMT components, I'd simply use normal thru-hole
components
> and push the leads down, for chips bend the leads out. This solves the
> problem of drilling. If you want to drill, drill first them apply
the tape.
>
> Since chips pins are on a 2.54mm (1/10") pitch, the tape is too
thick to use
> as is. The thinnest glass is 2mm (for picture frames), and tape to
match is
> about 4mm wide. There is thinner stuff, but it's hard to find. You'll
> have to lay out the tracks to allow for the thick tape, and then
trim the
> ends to meet up with the chip, angling it in to line up properly.
>
> Otherwise you can cut it to size yourself, much like how a vinyl cutter
> (drag knife) works. Set up the tape to run thru a roller guide, and
> position a blade so it cuts the tape, but not the backing. Of course,
> easier said than done. :)
>
> Tony
>