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Subject: Re:Toner Transfer

From: "phildimond" <my-yahoo-groups@...>
Date: 2008-11-07

I spent ages (years) trying to get TT working. I'm sure lots of people
have found that irons, etc do the job, but after about 5 years of
frustration, another member here gave me a sure-fire method...

After using it very successfully now (100% success), I found that the
secrets (at least for me) were:

1. Use a laminator. I was probably way too impatient with the iron, or
used the wrong heat, or whatever. I was pointed to a GBC Creative
laminator, super cheap and needed no modifications. I run it through
(on a slight angle, not square to the feed rollers) ten times, artwork
attached to the PCB with real 3M Scotch Magic tape, which seems to
survive the heat well and leave little or no residue if removed carefully.

2. Cheap, super glossy magazine paper. I tried a few papers, and from
what I can see, you want a glossy paper, but one of low quality. You
actually want it to fall apart when you soak it. We call it "toner
transfer", but in my limited experience what happens is that the toner
sticks to the board, and the thin layer of paper that the toner is
attached to stays on the toner. The soaking process is about
separating that thin layer from the rest of the sheet. When I'm done,
my dry traces look grey, not black, because the top surface is a
micro-thin layer of paper still attached to the toner.

I use super-glossy cheap magazine pages (the inner pages, not the covers)

Phil

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Roland F. Harriston"
<rolohar@...> wrote:
>
> Richad H.
>
> I agree with most of your observations. Perhaps using a laminator
> precludes the need to preheat the copper clad. I use a household iron,
> and find that preheating does contribute to success.
>
> Years ago, when I used Kodak KPR liquid resist, I learned that
> absolute cleanliness of the copper surface was the secret to
> getting a good resist coating using the "dip" method with the old
> Kepro dip tank.
>
> Cleanliness seems to be the key.
>
> If I could justify the cost of a laminator and the time
> to modify it, I'd certainly get one.
> But I do no more than eight or ten boards a year.
>
> I agree with your opinion regarding glossy paper. I have tried
> most of brands mentioned, and also find that the Hammermill
> paper is good and cheap. My last paper purchase was Hammermill
> "Office One" Business Gloss, 16302-0, 32 pound.
>
> Soaking in slightly warm water that contains a few drops
> of dish soap works fine. I just let the board soak until
> the paper lifts off. A bit of finger rubbing removes
> stubborn spots.
>
> Roland F. Harriston, PD
> ∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗∗
>