HP LaserJet 1020 and Kodak Soft Gloss - CAT 182 0406
It works great. just peal off the paper while its still hot and its
ready to etch once it cools.
The traces are 10mil. I measured them at work. The paper is also 10
mil so it didnt spread out like I thought it did. I looked at it
under a 10X scope and only had one spot where the trace had a dimple,
still connected but only half the width.
Brian
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Michel Baguet <bagmik@...>
wrote:
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> What kind of paper and printer do you use ?
>
> Mike.
>
> --- On Wed, 8/27/08, RICHARD HEILIGER <rdheiliger@...> wrote:
> From: RICHARD HEILIGER <rdheiliger@...>
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re:My first photo transfer
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 3:17 AM
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> I have found that unless the board is badly stained,
all that is needed is a quick wipe with alcohol before applying the
pattern. I only lay a towel on the counter to keep from scorching it,
but nothing between the paper pattern and iron. Iron set on cotton. I
use only the weight of the iron, no extra pressure. I do run the tip
around the edges of the board since the edges seem to loose heat more
rapidly. I don't use tape to hold the pattern, just put a finger on
the pattern and put the iron on the other end to get the pattern
tacked down. Don't have to remove the melted glue that way. I use 220
grit paper to take off the toner. Acetone works well too.
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> I put my silk screen on the top of the board the same way. I also
give the top and bottom of the board a very light spray of clear
acrylic before assembly. You can solder right thru the acrylic and it
forms its own solder mask. Helps prevent solder bridges as well.
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> I use a plastic cereal box with a glass fish tank heater and fish
tank bubbler.
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> All my boards are single side. I find it faster to run jumpers than
to mess with doing double sided. You have to put in the via's by hand
anyway.
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> I don't like making things any more complex than necessary ;).
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> RD
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