Sounds like we can ash can the solder pot, then.
How do you remove the cured ink to solder? I see cleaned, tinned traces in
the pictures posted in connection with inkjet resist.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist
> It needs to be a powerful hot air blade, as far as i know. I don't
> think a hot air gun would be nearly enough.
>
> Of course the toner will melt at soldering temperature, the question
> is how fast.
>
> Cured MISPRO ink is tough as nails. No easy way to get that off.
>
> ST
>
> On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 4:15 PM, Mike Young <mikewhy@...> wrote:
>> I have hot air to spare. If not enough, a small heat gun or embossing
>> tool
>> might do it.
>>
>> I hadn't thought about the toner melting off at solder temperature
>> (250^C?).
>> I read from your articles that MISPRO would also cure at that
>> temperature.
>> There was no mention of how the cured ink is cleaned after etching. Do
>> you
>> leave that in place?
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...>
>> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:01 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist
>>
>>
>>> I'm not sure straight dipping will work very well. Typically one would
>>> need to blow off the excess tin with hot air.
>>>
>>> Also, obviously you'd need to use some soldermask material for the
>>> mask, not straight toner, since that would simply melt.
>>>
>>> ST
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 3:59 PM, Mike Young <mikewhy@...>
>>> wrote:
>>>> I'm wondering about the practicality of tinning bare copper on PCBs by
>>>> dipping into a solder pot. If the board is masked with a negative
>>>> image,
>>>> the tinning can also form the the resist for etching.
>>
>>
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>>
>>
>>
>
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>
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>
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