I have hot air to spare. If not enough, a small heat gun or embossing tool
might do it.
I hadn't thought about the toner melting off at solder temperature (250^C?).
I read from your articles that MISPRO would also cure at that temperature.
There was no mention of how the cured ink is cleaned after etching. Do you
leave that in place?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist
> I'm not sure straight dipping will work very well. Typically one would
> need to blow off the excess tin with hot air.
>
> Also, obviously you'd need to use some soldermask material for the
> mask, not straight toner, since that would simply melt.
>
> ST
>
> On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 3:59 PM, Mike Young <mikewhy@...> wrote:
>> I'm wondering about the practicality of tinning bare copper on PCBs by
>> dipping into a solder pot. If the board is masked with a negative image,
>> the tinning can also form the the resist for etching.