> ∗ Developer/stripper chemistry - is more concentrated ok? Not
optimal from a cost point of view, but I'm thinking of
time-between-discards
> and shelf life.
>
> ∗ Developer/stripper temperature - I can use warm water to mix it, but
> heating it up for use might be tricky. Will it work at room
> temperature, albiet slower?
In the tests I have done so far, I have not used exact measurements.
For the developer I think what I used would be about 1 to 2
tablespoons for 16 ounces. All I really did was just sprinkle a little
into a shallow pan of warm water.
Since the sodium hydroxide is just used to remove the resist, I do not
think you can use too much, but again probably a few tablespoons to 16
ounces. I used warm water.
>
> ∗ Laminating - hotter OK? My laminator doesn't have a heat setting,
> and the hot air gun is too unpredictable, so do I err on the side of
> "hotter" or is "just right" important?
My laminator has a hi and low setting. I used the high and it worked
okay. The high setting is also what I used for toner transfer.
>
> ∗ baking - 212F for 5 min after developing. How important is this?
> How critical? Hot air gun OK?
Not sure about the baking. I have not done that myself.
>
> ∗ bubbling/agitating developer/stripper - how much of an effect is
> this? With the containers I have I could "swish" the boards around,
> but that's about it.
When developing I just swished the boards around until the unexposed
resist dissolved away.
When stripping I just put the board in and left it for about 5
minutes. The resist will come off in clumps.
The datasheet for the resist is on the home page of
www.pcbhobbyist.com. They give more exact parameters for lamination,
exposure, developing and stripping.
The direct url is
http://www.pcbhobbyist.com/mm100i.pdf The best thing to do is just give it a try on a test board and see
what happens. That's what I did.