Hello,
For Anodes copper, very necesary use "PHOSPHORIC COPPER"
For me, after 20 year using electrolitic copper bath, is no heating,
to min 15° centigrade.
Attention for the surface of the anodes, anodic surface is maximum,
but very very maximum 1/2 the surface of the plate per faces.
Normaly, use 1.6 Amps per Dm2 of visible copper surface, not the
print surface, but only the copper you see after insolation and
develop dry film is so little wat you think.
Use also 40 minutes electrolitic immersion time and you obtain a good
result, normaly, 17.5 microns déposition.
The déposition is glossy, if you obtain a mat surface, you are higt
for the ampérage.
In first time, with a new bath, attention with the brigtner, not add
bigger, is necessary a long time before add replenisher brigtner.
For brigtner, you add replenisher if you see the external coin are
mat.
For a new bath, use a brush plate, just a double face plate, no dry
film, put on the bath, and use 0.2 Amp per dm2 to 2 hours, your bath
is started, all the impurity is go, and important, your anodes is
flashed, normaly hi come black.
After 2 our, your plate is very glossy.
Also important, put your anodes in a polypropilene sac, al the
impurity go not in bath.
Very important, if you d'ont use the bath for a long time, put out
the anode, and look for the watter évaporation, adjust only with
deminéralised watter, only, no chemestery.
For anode, you can obtain to "AMPERE" in France, very nice matérial,
also for tin or tin-lead anode.
For electrolityc bath, normaly is also a pump and a filter to make
recirculation.
Is also very important you have pressure air with a ramp in the
bottom off the tank with small drilling holle, the air go to the top
off the bath, just a little pressure
Put this ramp just at the bottom of the plate.
Good ammusement, best regards, and d'ont hésitate to ask me.
Pleasure
Patrick Belgium Europe
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Markus Zingg <homebrew-pcb@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Suske,
>
> I obviousely don't care too much from where you get the chemistry
as
> long as it hopefully works out well for you :-). In other words, I
> apreciate the service Bungard is providing and as such wish them a
> looong life. Apart from this I'm not related to them in any ways. :-
)
>
> For the heaters, I use just dirt cheap regular aquarim heaters. The
only
> thing to watch out here is that they usually don't go up to the
> temperature you need. However, they are (usually, check with what's
> available at your place) built using bimetal switches to switch the
> power on and off. The ones I found here (really the very cheapest
ones,
> I use 100W heaters) have inside a little plastic part that sits on
a
> fine threaded screw which is what you turn from outside to set the
> temperature. That plastic part is having a nose to limit
the "hottest"
> end position. By simply cutting of that nose you can modify the
heaters
> so as they go up to the requiered 75 degree celsius. There is
usually no
> problem or security issue involved here apart from the obivous
safety
> handling of such heaters. The heaters are made for such
temperatures.
> Those for the aquarium are just limitted so as the average aquarium
user
> does not end up unintentionally boiling the fishes.... :-) Just
make
> sure you never turn the heaters on if they are not COMPLETELY
flodded in
> the fluid or else the surrounding glass will instantly break.
>
> As far as the anodes go I think the phosphor is important to get
good
> results. I bougth my material from a source here in Switzerland
> (Haeuselmann Metalle) which is carrying different alloys of copper.
One
> of them is having a small percentage of phosphor in it. So you may
shop
> around a little up until you find such a source. If you have found
an
> alternative source for the chemistry - why not ask them for a
pointer to
> annodes? Professionals use copper nuggets in titanium containers
which
> are then flodded in the copper solution and at least those must be
> available near you if there are also board houses since this is
what
> they use. As a last straw, you could use such nuggets, melt them
and
> found anodes this way. I of course also could buy you the raw
material
> here at the 1:1 costs of what I pay. However, shipping the ~2KG of
> material might be a bit costly but feel free to get back to me if
that's
> what you want.
>
> HTH
>
> Markus
>
> _bojan_ schrieb:
> >
> > Hi Markus,
> >
> > Thanks a lot for your writing.
> >
> > Another detail ar fluid heating. Bungard use PTFE plated large
area
> > heaters. What did you use for fluids heating in tanks?
> >
> > What about anodes, can I use some copper plate or I must use that
> > sulphurised copper.
> >
> > B.T.W. I am on the way to get my chemicals but not from
Bungard. ;)
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > Suske
> >
> >
>