I have started using sainburys Photo paper gloss which is £2.99 for a
pack of 25 sheets with a HP1022 printer I have found I get flawless
double sided ground planned boards with some 10Mil tracks. The boards
are 8"x5" and are very dense. I say flawless I have done 3 so far and
I can only find one flaw which was due to a small spec of dust
getting under the paper durring lamination. As a note I use A PC line
laminator with modifcation to the thermostate I run it thru once
without the paper to preheat it then apply the paper to a side run it
thru again. then apply the paper to the remaining side. Soak in hot
water for 10 minutes rub the paper of using a toothbrush. The ferric
clorid heated to 50DegC Useing 1oz copper it usally takes about
3mins to etch. I use heated spray etching the etchant is sprayed on
in a mist. I a perspex box at 30PSI. I am thinking about modifying
the etching camber so that it also washes the board / boards as
ferric clorid is horrible stuff when I get round to this I put some
info up on how i made the chamber.
Just as a note my orignal intention was to prove you could get
commercial results with this home methods that are quicker then the
trditional UV method and cheaper. My verdict is yes once setup its
deffiantly faster and cheaper. If you can find an old laminator and
HP laser printer then your nearly thier my main problem was finding a
good paper to use in the UK.
Also the reason the gloss paper works so well is the resin coating
that seals the pourousity in the toner.
My next project is going to be an old Epson printer I have and
converting it to print using Solder resist and paint for masks etc. I
will leave thru hole plateing for now as I have no current
requirement that justifyies the costs of setting it up.
Also has anyone done any soldering of SMT useing a more automated
process then a soldering Iron ??
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Michel Baguet <bagmik@...>
wrote:
>
> Thank you,
>
> I already use HP inkjet photopaper which works without soaking in
water, just peel it off. But for double sided PCB, it's difficult to
align both sheet. And those transparencies seems to be the solutions.
>
> Mike.
>
> Derward <wdmyrick@...> wrote: Mike,
this is overhead projector transparency for laser printers
> so it will take the iron heat. I iron on like any paper and let
cool.
> Once it is cool I peal the transparency back directly over its
self.
> DO NOT SOAK IN WATER. It comes off clean this way.
>
> I have not tried any other brand, but if it is for laser printers
> I think it would work.
>
> The CG5000 is the number on the box.
>
> Any other questions please ask.
>
> Derward myrick KD5WWI
>
> Hi,
>
> Can you give more infos about the 3M transparency you use ?
> Have you any reference ?
>
> Mike.
>
> Derward <wdmyrick@...> wrote: Mike, I have some 3M transparency
film for use with
> Laser printers and I started using this for toner transfer
> (type cg5000). I am using a HP 2600 color laser printer
> and this does the best boards of any thing I have used.
>
> I do not use ferric chloride but I use muratic acid and
> hydrogen peroxide. 2 parts hydrogen peroxide and
> 1 part muratic acid and use at room temp. This does
> the best and fastest etching of any thing I have seen.
> You do not want to breathe the fumes and the fumes
> are corrosive so don't expose any metal to the fumes.
>
> I think you will find the HP toner is the best (for PCB making)
> on the market.
>
> Derward Myrick KD5WWI
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: michael tenore
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 3:35 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Epson R285
>
> Hi!
>
> I ran my Staples paper thru the printer a second time by printing
just a period (.) so the fuser turns on!
>
> The The image transfered very well to the board. The white residue
was only on top of the toner.But I did not etech it as that was only
> a test run. but the traces were beautifully done..I cleaned the
paper off the traces with a old tooth brush..
>
> Regards
>
> mike..
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: peripherin <peripherin@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 9:23:47 PM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Epson R285
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com, "peripherin"
<peripherin@ ...>
> wrote:
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com, "peripherin"
<peripherin@ >
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Over the last 10 years I have been producing home PCB's with
> > varying
> > > degrees of complexity useing the traditional photo exposure
> method
> > > with my local print shop providing 2400dpi negatives. I can
> > reliabley
> > > turn out boards with 35 micron tracks in 1oz copper which
seems
> to
> > be
> > > the minimum width that most manufacturers can achieve
reliably.
> > > However I have noticed that Direct resist printing seems to
be
> > giving
> > > some very good results with the mispro inks.
> > > My question is what inks are availble in the UK as I can not
seem
> > to
> > > find MISpro over here? Also has anybody looked at the Epson
R285
> > > printer as it prints CD's DVD which means the feed rollers
must
> be
> > > far enough apart to accept PCB's. I am going to look at one
this
> > > afternoon so will post a comment if it is suitable.
> > > Going back to the inks has anyone tryed the Acrylic inks as
I
> > > understand they can be made inkjet compatible? and should
also be
> > > etch resistant.
> > > I have tryed the laser toner tranfer method several times
but I
> > have
> > > found it does not work to well with ground planned boards
due to
> > > toner density which after trying on several different media
types
> > and
> > > printers I can not improve. It however gives some impressive
> > results
> > > with tracks down to 17 microns reliabley and cleanly being
> etched.
> > I
> > > have ordered a negative from my local print shop just to try
> useing
> > > the best media I have found which they say will have uniform
> toner
> > > density so we will see how this turns out.
> > >
> > > Anyhow if anybody has tryed an Epson R285 I like to know
what the
> > > results were like and what ink you have use?
> > >
> >
> > Update: Ok spent the afternoon really upsetting the sales
person in
> > PC world by making him demonstrate two laser printers HP1018
and
> 1022.
> >
> > I also got a demonstration of the CD printing facility on the
R285
> > and all I can say is that it is that the way the feed mechnism
> works
> > is slightly different from what i expected yes the rollers are
> > further apart but because of the issues over board size I did
not
> go
> > any further with this mainly because if I was to use this for
> > production boards it would use to many processes and again
prove as
> > complex to fix the ink as a normal UV method. If someone has
the
> time
> > then it may be a great printer to modify. I have however been
told
> by
> > our by someone I trust that photoresist can be printed from a
> normal
> > inkjet cartridge but because the liquid is to viscous it
produces
> to
> > larger droplet size. Aparently thier is a company who is
> researching
> > into produceing a Piezoelectric print head for PCB's.
> >
> http://www.electron icsweekly. com/Articles/ 2005/04/14/
34905/pcb+ maker+p
> > lans+ink-jet+ printing. htm?
> > Unfortunately I do not know what has become of this company
anybody
> > know ?
> > Getting back to the laser printers I followed this up again as
> > talking to the salesman some of the modern lasers printers
increase
> > toner density in large areas of Mono. If you look at the
resulting
> > prints from different printers you can see more matt areas
within
> the
> > large areas of ground plans which I have found porous when
> etching.
> > With the HP's this does not seem to be the case and remember I
am
> not
> > using special paper I am talking about printing onto standard
90gsm
> > paper.
> > Anyhow I have taken the sample prints on three types of paper
home
> to
> > etch. I have used 90 GSM laser paper Xerox, Epson photo matt
paper
> > and staples photo basic glossy.
> > I also asked about life of the printer by useing non
reccommended
> > papers they said that it would wear the fuser and tonner drum
> faster
> > and possibley the rollers but considering the printers are sub
£100
> > thats not really an issue.
> > Anyhow I will comment on the results latter.
> >
> Okay have now etched the test board the results vary a little.
> Admittedly the etchant is used and cold so probably the worst
way to
> etch. The xerox paper gave results which were acceptable with
slight
> bleed thru on tracks around 35 Microns and small pin holes on
the
> larger areas of tonner. Admittedly this would not have been a
problem
> if the acid was new and I had the heater on. The staples paper I
> suspect has changes recently as after striping back the paper I
> noticed it had left a nasty white residue perhapes something the
> treat the paper evapourating while I ironed it onto the board.
This
> rendered the board un etchable as it turned it to resist all
over. By
> far the epson paper has given the better results the tracks are
clean
> all the way down to 25 Microns. The larger areas again were a
bit
> disapointing the echant had bled thru. I am sure the result
could be
> improved. I am however going to empty the etching tank and mix
up a
> new batch of ferric clorid and heat it to 50deg c on the next
attempt
> I am also going to try Epson Gloss Paper. I understand that
because
> of the coating on the photopapers the tonner takes to the paper
> better because of the smoother surface and the coating applied
to the
> paper.
> Out of the printers the HP 1022 seems to give better results
which is
> no surprise as the DPI count is higher.
>
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>
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