About the photos...
The Bottom (copper) side shows an UN-retouched process.
I printed the PCB tracks on the hot stamp foil (back side of it)
using my HP LaserJet 6L (any laser will do)
I placed the foil down on the (cleaned) PCB copper.
Pressed with the hot press.
Peeled the foil off.
Etched.
Drilled.
Cleaned off the toner and foil residue with acetone (works fastest,
but very dangerous chemical, use extreme caution). You can see the
black streaks left by the dissolved toner. It can be cleaned off, but
I just wanted to do it quickly.
Scanned it.
Posted it here.
The TOP side shows the component layout.
Again, it is unretouched, so it can be done much better if more care
is given.
I printed the component layout (reverse) on the back side of the hot
stamp foil.
PLaced it on the top side of the etched and drilled PCB.
Alignment or clarity was not important, and so it shows.
Interesting factoids...
1)The "copyright" notice on the PCB is written in 3mil lines. It
shows pretty well. I think it shows that very thin lines are quite
possible.
2)lines can become thick when pressure is increased too much, as
evident in the top/left quadrant of the copper side.
John Myszkowski...
========================
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "John Myszkowski"
<myszka_us2000@y...> wrote:
> 1) I use direct toner to hot foil. I use HP LaserJet 6L, works at
> either 300 or 600 dpi.
>
> 2)Flat hot press to PCB. I was lucky enough to have one around,
works
> much better than an iron. Better, more consitant results.
>
> 3)etch in ferric chloride. I have Ammonium Persulphate, but I want
to
> finish using all the Ferric fist (its taking a long time).
>
> I get 10 thou lines (10mil) without problem. Large surfaces give me
a
> bit of problem, but easy to fix. I could probably get 5mils, I just
> don't need it, yet.
>
> Look for my PCP photo (scan) in the "Files" folder, maybe today.
>
> John Myszkowski...
> ==============================
>
>