I strongly recommend you to use a laminator, one you buy or you build
from an old laser printer. It must be able to go to 200°C and you can
always modify its speed to avoid multiple passes.
Ironing require a lot of practice to get good results with different
tickness, I get only one out of two acceptable, not yet perfect with
HP Premium Plus inkjet photopaper. By the way, if you use this kind of
paper, after you have printed your drawing on it, I suggest you remove
the back sheet of plastic. With a cutter, it's not difficult to
seperate the front where you have your print from the back. This is to
avoid, if your paper contains too moist, when heating the paper that
bubbles appears between the two plastic sheet that form the paper and
deforms your drawing on the copper clad.,
I'm using HP Premium Plus inkjet photopaper with a HP laserjet 6P.
and still have some pinholes in the print from time to time.
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Macklin"
<rottenrobbie0@...> wrote:
>
> What is the secret to successfuk Toner Transfer? I have been
> consitently getting only partial transfers.
>
> I have been cleaning the copper as well as I know how. Sanding,
> ScotchBrite, and acetone.
>
> A fer days ago I tried some test transfers on 1/16" material. After a
> couple good transfers on that material I went to the 1/32" material I
> need to use. Now I am only getting between 50% and 75% of the toner
> transfered. The part that does transfer is bonding very well.
>
> I read one place to keep the heat on it until the paper appears
> scorched. They claimed there was no such thing a too much heat.
>
> My iron is getting very dirty so I am now cleaning it berofe the next
> try.
>
> Bob Macklin
> Seattle, Wa.
>