Laser Printer & gloves is a great start
I do both Toner transfer and the photo method (as discussed here ... I
do the positive process as it is a little easier and the results are
still excellent). Although the photo method makes the best boards, I
do TT 90% of the time because it's very quick and easy and the boards
turn out pretty good (especially for projects like your descriping ...
anything through hole and larger SMD is a breeze ... I stick with the
larger SMD as it eliminates all the drilling).
For TT, I use Hammermill paper which can be bought from Sam's Club
online (among others). My paper is:
Hammermill OfficeOne Glossy Paper #229030
I also think this would work good (but haven't tried it):
Hammermill Color Laser Gloss Paper #292253
Steve Trethan (forgive the name butchering) has a good paper too from
staples. It's also an office type business gloss (basically a cheap
glossy paper).
For layout I use Dip Trace. The free demo version is quite capable
and full versions are not all that expesive either. I've been using it
a lot and really like it (and as I come from OrCAD, that says a lot).
http://www.diptrace.com/OrCad also has a free demo version and their software is top notch but
the pcb layout in the demo is very limitted. DipTrace is much more
generous on design size.
I lay out the board with DipTrace, mirror the image (in DipTrace) for
the top layer (mirror top layer only if doing 2 sides), and print it
on the hammermill paper. To save sheets, you can cut them in half and
send half sheets through the printers single sheet slot. (you do know
this group is notoriously cheap right?)
Clean the board, I use dawn soap and a scotch-brite pad
Then I place the image on the board and iron the be-jeepers out of it
(iron on high, I iron fairly frim for 2 to 3 minutes depending on the
board size ... move the iron slowly over the board , push down between
movements but ease up a little when moving it so the traces don't smudge).
soak and peel (5 minutes of soak and then start rubbing the paper off
I etch in Ferric Chloride as the toner is very resistant to it.
I also etched a couple in Muratic Acid. It worked well and was fast
but the boards need to come out right away or the acid starts to eat
under the toner and lifts it off. And there are the nasty fumes too.
Works good though (50/50 Muratic acid from Menards and Hydrogen
Peroxide from the drugstore as both are already diluted)
For blank boards I shop Jameco (www.jameco.com) and Digi-Key.
Digi-Key has a larger selection and actually very good prices on their
stock.
Radio Shack used to sell pcb stock too although the boards aren't as
good (I like FR-4, I'm not sure if they carry that). Good place to get
something quick though.
- phil
KA0HBG
> My biggest question is the type of paper you use in the printer so
you can get a transfer. Where do you get it? Also a good source for
blank boards (single side to start with). What about software? Is
there a freeware that works good for simple layouts? Is there a
standard commercial package that everyone uses or is the most popular.
I've read about Eagle????
> I've done some layouts by hand with a felt tip pen, but it's time
consuming and difficult to edit.