> Anyway I have convereted a C84 Epson to print on some thin copper
clad
> I am very disapointed in the results I have major pitting on the
> etched PCB.
>
> I am using the genuine Durabrite inks.
> I have tried yellow magenta and cyan even tried black.
> yellow looked best but still not even usable.
> Tried pre-etching + Preheating.
> Tried FeCl and Sodium Persulfate.
You missed curing. You have to cure the ink at the temperature
specified at
http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcb/etch/directinkjetresist.htm Without curing, it just washes off as you have seen.
> Why do the color inks not laydown solid like the black they have an
> orangepeel texture? Black looks solid but doesnt hold up.
> All inks look solid when printed on paper.
That seems to happen to most people and it doesn't matter. Volkan is
the only person I am aware of who has been able to get it to print
without the texture. The texture doesn't seem to hurt anything.
> I think if I could get yellow to cover like the black it would
> work.
Magenta seems to have the reputation for the best resist after
curing, but I believe there has been some success with other colors.
Not black.
>
> I tried to use the durabrite ink as a blocker and tinplate and use
the
> tin as the etch resist but the durabrite didnt even holdup to the
ITP
> plating.
Again, curing is a critical step.
> Oh well enough rambling throw in your input or questions and I'll
keep
> plugging away.
>
> I may settle for using this to print NEGs for the dry film the
black
> on transparencys is way better than I expected that would speed
things
> up I wouldnt have to wait for the NEGs to be made.
A number of people have reported success with that.
> I will try and post some pictures Sunday.
I alway appreciate seeing the pictures, and a description of what we
are looking at would be even better.
> Later
> Ken
>
James Newton
http://www.massmind.org