--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin Urbom" <urbomb@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of juanabba
> Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 1:48 AM
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: paint board cooper image using silk screen
> - someone with experience
>
>
>
> Hi Kevin
> thanks for your answer
> I was talking to the professionals down here that produce the
> silkscreen mask, and I became very much sceptic whether the silk scren
> mask could transfer any line below 100 mil.
> They told me that the definition they have for the equipment that
> produce the mask is below 200 DPI.
>
> Is that the case at your country.???
> how do you produce the mask, using professional services or DIY
> method???
>
> Juan:
>
> Sorry for the delay.
>
> I did my silkscreen DIY. I bought a pre-stretched screen that is 230
> mesh fabric, and used chromaline procap 30 capillary film for the
> emulsion on the screen. With my 400 watt metal halide lamp at 32
> inches, the exposure time was about 35 minutes with an inkjet
> transparency made on 3M inkjet transparency stock. I tried a laser
> printer transparency, but there were way too many pinholes. The image
> is then washed out and dried. I screened white solvent based glossy ink
> onto the pc board and after drying, etched in CuCl. As far as how many
> mils you can do, all of the signal traces on the boards that I did are
> 50 mil traces, separated by 50 mils in the best case, and by about 20 in
> the worst case. I also did a 50 pin centronics connector that has .075"
> pads with .029 holes on about a 2.3mm x 5mm grid. All the holes in the
> pads showed and etched well eough to help guide the drill bit. There is
> a bit of a learning curve on how much to thin the ink, but once you get
> it right, screening the actual boards is really fast. If I quit being
> lazy, I'll take some pics and put them on the group site. I am
> confident that 20 mil traces would be possible with some practice
>
>
>
> Kevin
hi Kevin
Thanks a lot for the comprehensive answer.
I am trying to get the elements down here ( or finding a local
replacement ) so I can try out your method.
The doubt I have at this moment is the ink you use to silk screen the
cooper after producing your mask.
You mention "white solvent based glossy ink"), is that the correct
spec????
But before I understood you use either
a> fuji (sericol) quick dry enamel ink
or
b> Nazdar ink would be fine to
can you pls clarify this.??
Thanks again, you are being extremely helpful
best regards
juan
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