--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "urbom" <urbomb@...> wrote:
>
> Just finished 16 12"x18" boards this way. I used a 320 mesh screen,
> procap capillary film for the emulsion and fuji (sericol) quick dry
> enamel ink. Like all the other processes, cleaning the board well is
> very important. I think Nazdar ink would be fine too. You can
> retouch any pinholes after printing and take off any extra ink. I
> think that possibly an infrared bake after the initial cure might help
> keep the ink on the board if you are using an agressive etch. If yoy
> want any other information about the printing, and where to get
> supplies, let me know. (could probably send enough nazdar ink to keep
> you going for about a decade) The procap is super and gives good
> detail even though it is really costly.
>
> Kevin
> >
> > I need to make about a dozen or so boards, and as I did not find a
> > good paper/xerox printer combination, will like to go
> > inkjetprint--->produce silk screen on a shop--->paint the design image
> > to the cooper side--->etch the undesired coope
> >
> > any hints
> > is a good one??
> > kind of paint o be used????
> > other hints????
> >
> > thanks in advance
> > jaun
> >
>
Hi Kevin
thanks for your answer
I was talking to the professionals down here that produce the
silkscreen mask, and I became very much sceptic whether the silk scren
mask could transfer any line below 100 mil.
They told me that the definition they have for the equipment that
produce the mask is below 200 DPI.
Is that the case at your country.???
how do you produce the mask, using professional services or DIY method???
Ill like all information you can provide about your method and sources
thanks in advance
Juan